Why it’s time to do Canada differently

With a surge in bookings to hotspots such as Toronto and Lake Louise, seize the opportunity to venture off the beaten track this summer, says Tim Jepson

Let’s assume you understand the appeal of Canada: the majestic landscapes (mountains, fjords, forests, glaciers); the plethora of outdoor activities; the lure of the open road; the extraordinary wildlife; the scenic rail journeys; and the range of buzzing, contemporary cities.

Knowing this, why would you want to get off the beaten track? Surely, in a country of this size and scenic grandeur, where wilderness and wideopen spaces prevail, pretty much everywhere is off the beaten track?

Well, yes and no. Like any country, Canada has its busy spots – places you and everyone else wants to see – and tours and activities in which far too many want to indulge: the Canadian Rockies (top of the list, of course), the honey pots of Banff and Lake Louise, along with Niagara Falls, Whistler for winter sports, and the world-class cities of Vancouver and Toronto.

This summer, more than ever, Canada’s hotspots are under pressure. UK tour operators report a surge in bookings, coinciding with larger than usual numbers of Canadian and American travellers who, post-pandemic, have chosen to holiday close to home. The result is a shortage of accommodation, hire cars and campervans.

Be flexible around dates, if you can, is the operators’ advice and, more to the point, this year or any year, look beyond the usual destinations to get under the country’s skin. The same goes for types of holiday – why always the same rail journeys through the Rockies or trips to predictable, oversubscribed spots for polar bear or whale-watching? And why only in summer when autumn colours in the forests of eastern Canada, for example, are the equal of their New England counterparts?

We’re not saying avoid Canada’s highlights – nobody wants to miss the Rockies – but rather consider them as part of a less predictable itinerary, or plump for some of the quieter but equally glorious alternatives we have highlighted on the following pages.

g Blazing paddles: explore Nova Scotia’s islands by kayak