Is this town really on the same island as Magaluf?

Avoid the beach resorts and stay at sleepy Santanyí, says Mark C O’Flaherty. But don’t delay – everyone will be flocking there soon

While the west coast of Mallorca gets the most attention, and you certainly have to dive off the rocks of Deià after a seafood lunch at least once in your life, the south-east of the island is arguably more beautiful. Avoid the resorts of Cala d’Or and stay inland at Santanyí, a golden-stone town that dates back to the 13th century. It’s almost too perfect; every narrow street looks like a meticulous film set, especially when the golden hour casts the sharp shadow of palm trees on the walls of the church of Sant Andreu. The town is as peaceful as it is pretty. About 3,000 people live here, but sometimes you will barely see a soul as you walk across the town square.

It’s that tranquillity and visual patina that brought people here to open chic little interior design stores, art galleries and restaurants with walled gardens and citrus trees.

There are relatively few places to stay, which keeps it uncrowded – there’s the mid-range Hotel Santanyí (hoteletsantanyi.com) on Plaça de la Constitució, and a few cute Airbnbs, including the artfully furnished twobedroom apartment Can Ponç Parra.

However, last year the hoteliers behind Sant Francesc – one of the most luxe, contemporary hotels in Palma – opened the doors to Can Ferrereta (see below). They transformed a 17thcentury mansion into what might well be the most perfect place to holiday in Europe, from the monochrome interiors and artwork by Joan Miró, to the wine list, seafood croquetas and suckling pig. Despite having just 32 rooms, it’s had more attention than anything else in the Balearics in years. You’d barely know the hotel was there though; it blends in perfectly with the rest of Santanyí. There is no late-night bar scene, and it seems implausible that the town is on the same island as Magaluf.

Can Ferrereta’s success is likely to be the first tremor in seismic changes – the 16th-century city walls, built to keep out Ottoman invaders, are now as much an invitation to newcomers as anything. Go now, while you don’t have to book a month in advance for tapas.

About 3,000 people live here but sometimes you’ll barely see a soul as you walk across the town square

Balearic bliss: Santanyí is ‘almost too perfect’ yet the coast nearby is nearly deserted