Europe’s best car-free beach breaks

You don’t need to go through the faff (and expense) of hiring a vehicle to discover under-the-radar options that are perfect for a family escape, says Laura Fowler

The economics of motoring seems to have become an acceptable topic of conversation among those of pre-pensionable age lately, having been hitherto reserved for in-law visits. Petrol prices spiralling upwards; the rising costs of owning a car, financially and ecologically; and now, the dearth and consequent inaffordability of hire cars in Europe.

Another media panic, I thought – until my husband and I went to book one for our holiday in Galicia in July, and were quoted £1,300 for a tinpot Kia Picanto for a fortnight. As we searched, it became clear that for the first time in 15 years, we were going to have to take public transport instead. Secretly (because saying anything out loud would smack of Edina Monsoon: “Anyone can use public transport, darling.” Saffy: “I know. That’s the point.”), I was gripped with cold horror.

I love cars! The hire car has always been as vital a part of our family holidays as flights and accommodation. I love the freedom it gives you to explore, to unearth secrets – the incomparable joy of rounding a bend and a bay of dazzling blue opening up before you, above and below.

If I’m honest, there are downsides. The stress of navigating unfamiliar roads, the problem of parking, the carbon footprint, the tricksy Spanish driving fines. Sitting gridlocked in Formentera in searing heat outside an overflowing carpark, while a happy family coasted by on bicycles. In Mallorca, getting towed for parking on the wrong side of the street on a Wednesday. The £100 on-the-spot fine for failing to stop at a dotted line in Ibiza.

Perhaps not having a car offers its own sense of freedom – a sort of footloose liberty. Pack light and step lightly, play it by ear, stay for another drink as the sun goes down. Watch new landscapes slide by a train window, or hop aboard a boat bound for protected, car-free shores.

And going car-free doesn’t mean having to resort to package-holiday high-rises with the hordes. The key is to look between the obvious honeypots and over-touristed hotspots, and find an under-the-radar little place that is easy to reach and has all you need for a beach holiday: namely, a fantastic beach or two within strolling or cycling distance, a handful of restaurants and bars where locals drink, and a charming place to stay. So here are 20 appealing destinations that fit the bill for offbeat beach breaks in Europe – no car required.