The Daily Telegraph - Saturday - Travel
Take a shortcut to Croatian charm
A new bridge will open up Peljesac – a region of fine wines, fresh oysters and glorious mountain walks, says Jane Foster
The long-awaited, 7,887ft Peljesac Bridge, connecting Komarna on the Dalmatian mainland to Brijesta on the Peljesac peninsula, is due to open on July 26. It will make road trips between Dubrovnik and Split around 45 minutes quicker, as motorists will no longer have to pass through Bosnia and Herzegovina. Even more enticingly, it opens up the glorious Peljesac region.
WHAT MAKES IT SPECIAL
For most Croats, Peljesac is synonymous with Plavac Mali, a small black grape that produces a full-bodied red wine (the most revered being Dingac, from Potomje), and fresh oysters from Mali Ston Bay. This sun-soaked peninsula is wild and rugged, and rises from the deep blue Adriatic some 30 miles north-west of Dubrovnik, opposite the island of Korcula. Its shores are dotted with sleepy fishing villages and pebble beaches, its rocky heights skirted by pinewoods, vineyards and olive groves. An intriguing history (Peljesac was a borderland between Dubrovnik and the Venetian Empire) will captivate culture buffs, while sporty types can enjoy windsurfing, scuba diving, hiking and mountain biking.
WHAT TO SEE AND DO
The gateway to Peljesac, Ston combines two tiny settlements, Veli Ston and Mali Ston. In medieval times, when Peljesac was ruled by the Republic of Ragusa (as Dubrovnik was then known), vast fortifications were built, including four miles of defensive walls and more than 40 towers and bastions, effectively controlling land access to the peninsula and protecting Ston’s valued saltpans. Most of the walls remain – you can walk the steep, stepped ramparts over the hill from Ston to Mali Ston (allow 40 minutes) for fantastic coastal views.
Mali Ston is something of a gourmet destination thanks to its superb oysters. Taste them at Bota Sare Oyster & Sushi Bar (bota-sare.hr). Take a boat trip to visit their oyster beds in Mali Ston Bay, so you can learn more about how these revered shellfish are cultivated on ropes.
The saltpans, dating back to Roman times and said to be the oldest in Europe, also remain. Take a tour of the saltworks to see how salt is still produced naturally here – the hot summer sun and local winds cause shallow pools of seawater to evaporate and crystallise, and the salt is then harvested by hand.
Arguably the nicest place to stay on Peljesac is Orebic, on the south-west coast, opposite the island of Korcula. Its seafront promenade is lined by gracious 19th-century villas, built by local sea captains and featuring walled gardens with palms, wisteria, bougainvillea and oleander. Orebic’s wealth was based on shipping, and at its peak a fleet of 90 tall ships was based here; learn more at the tiny Maritime Museum. Orebic is also blessed with a string of fine pebble beaches, the best known being Trstenica, complete with jet skis for hire and an inflatable aqua park for kids.
Behind Orebic rises Sveti Ilija, the highest point on the peninsula at 3,152ft. Well-marked hiking trails take you up to the peak – on a clear day you can see Italy to the west.
Less enthusiastic walkers might just go as far as the lovely 15th-century hillside Franciscan Monastery, Our Lady of Angels. Its small museum exhibits votive offerings and paintings, donated by local seafarers to thank the Virgin for protecting them on perilous voyages, and its garden affords superb views over pines and cypresses, down to the turquoise waters.
Watersports enthusiasts should head
for Viganj, four miles west of Orebic. Here, in the sea channel between Peljesac and Korcula, reliable wind and calm waters provide conditions ideal for windsurfing. Water Donkey (windsurfing-kitesurfing-viganj.com) offers windsurfing and kite-surfing tuition, and also hire out sea kayaks, paddleboards and bikes.
For those more interested in wine, east of Orebic, on Peljesac’s sunsoaked seaward slopes, lie the famed Dingac vineyards. The main village is Potomje, and from here a dark and narrow road tunnel leads to the vineyards, which are terraced and so steep they can only be worked by hand. You can taste Dingac at Matusko (matuskovina.hr) in Potomje, and also take a guided tour of its vast cellars. Alternatively, in Orebic itself, the stately Korta Katarina Winery (kortakatarinawinery.com) offers tours and tasting. It also does a magnificent dinner with wine pairing (reservations essential).
WHERE TO STAY
In Orebic, Villa Korta Katarina (villakortakatarina.com) is a sumptuous 1930s retreat, with eight plush suites, a small spa and an infinity pool. Also in Orebic, the adults-only Boutique Hotel Adriatic (hoteladriaticorebic.com) offers six lovely rooms, and an excellent seafood restaurant. In Viganj, Villa Viganj (i-escape.com/villa-viganj), set in a hillside garden with a pool, is perfect for family groups.
WHERE TO EAT
In Mali Ston, Bota Sare (bota-sare.hr) is your go-to restaurant for fresh oysters, while Luka’s Taverna (facebook.com/ lukataverna) in nearby Kobas Bay does excellent seafood. In Orebic, Villa Korta Katarina (villakortakatarina. com), in addition to stylish rooms, offers a superlative dining experience; Stari Kapetan, adjoining Hotel Adriatic (see above) excels with seafood; Croccantino (facebook.com/CroccantinoCRO) serves delicious ice cream and home-made cakes. Last but not least, in Kuna, rustic Konoba Antunovic (opgantunovic.hr/hr) is an authentic family run agrotourism restaurant.