The Daily Telegraph - Saturday - Travel
The 10 lessons I learnt from my walking safari in South Africa
As she returns at last to a country she loves, Kay Burley finds that it still has some surprises in store – even for a regular visitor
Iam never happier than when I am on safari in Africa. So many times have my family and I been to Ulusaba, in the Sabi Sands, that we are on first-name terms with everyone from rangers to housekeepers. Up until 2020, the team welcomed us back with open arms every year and the enforced hiatus due to the global pandemic was a wrench for all of us.
Seeing animals in their natural habitat is a privilege of which we never tire. This time, though, our senses sharpened by a two-year absence, we found there was more to discover than ever and it was down to our foot ranger, Bradley Sheldon, to educate us in its hidden wonders – and give us some life lessons, too. The African bush is Mother Nature’s medicine cabinet, offering everything from a soother for Covid symptoms and a plant that can also double as a toothbrush.
Wearing sturdy boots, our trousers tucked into thick socks and mosquito spray at the ready, we clambered from our safari vehicle and stood in silence as Brad loaded his rifle. Our tracker, Harold, strapped a first aid kit to his back before bringing up the rear of the group.
With that we were off, following in single file – our bush immersion about to begin. My heart was racing a little faster than normal, but I took it all in – and here’s what I learnt...
DO AS YOU ARE TOLD
This was a difficult one for me to swallow. I’m not known for following the official line, after all. But in the bush, it could make the difference between life and death. Exploring the bush on foot can be extremely dangerous and a safety briefing was essential before we could clamber off the open-sided Land Rover Defender. Walk in single file behind the ranger, no talking; listen carefully; stop when Brad raises his hand and do exactly as you are told at all times. Oh, and startling a wild animal is never a good idea – especially when you are not in the relative safety of the vehicle.
DO AS THE MONKEYS DO – NOT THE BABOONS
“As a general rule, humans can eat what monkeys eat as our digestive systems are similar, but absolutely not what baboons eat,” advised Brad. It’s important also, then, to know the difference between the two species. Safe to say baboons are much bigger, more aggressive and would happily wrestle with a leopard. Monkeys are mischievous, cheeky and much smaller. If you’re not sure, don’t eat it!
FEVER TEA IS NOT A MIXER FOR GIN
Brad had promised to educate us about some of the plants, shrubs and trees used by the local community for health purposes – and those that should be avoided. It wasn’t long before we came across a woody looking shrub with an aromatic smell and snow-white flowers. “This is a fever tea or lemon bush,” said Brad. “It’s very useful for all sorts of ailments.”
Its Latin name is Lippia javanica, and many local people apparently used it to try to relieve the symptoms of Covid. “It can be made into a tea and used as an infusion to clear up chest problems including coughs,” said Brad.
He picked a few leaves and, when we rubbed them between our hands, they gave off a strong, lemon-like smell. The leaves and stems can also be soaked in a bowl of hot water and the fumes can help ease tightness of the chest – Mother Nature’s equivalent of a vapour rub. When cooled, it can also be used for stings, scratches and bites.
“Whatever you do, if a plant resembles a tomato, don’t put it in your mouth.” Good to know.
FORGOTTEN YOUR CONTACT LENS SOLUTION? NATURE CAN HELP…
We gathered around a pretty blue flower, Commelina erecta, also known as the widow’s tear. “Any of you wear contact lenses?’ asked Brad. “If you forget the solution, a drop from this flower can be used on the lens instead. Just squeeze at the calyx and a drop or two of clear fluid is released.”
You can also drop it directly into your eye, but I didn’t fancy it – so I decided to take Brad’s word for it.
THERE’S A NATURAL TOOTHBRUSH –
AND TOOTHPASTE, TOO… The magic guarri bush (Euclea divinorum) has multiple uses. Chewing on a branch to remove the bark, then fanning out the end, makes a pretty effective toothbrush. The cooled ash of a leadwood tree (Combretum imberbe), when mixed with water, makes a substance similar to toothpaste.
YOU CAN WASH YOUR
HAIR WITH A NATURAL SHAMPOO
As we drove back towards our lodge, pausing to watch a family of warthogs scatter in surprise at our presence before cautiously returning to check us out, Harold slid from his vantage point at the front of the Defender and returned with a herb covered in beautiful, bright pink flowers. Adding a couple of drops of water from our drinking bottle, we were encouraged to rub the herb between our hands – and it quickly made a soap solution. “Local ladies use it to wash their hair,” said Harold.
THERE’S A HERB FOR ALMOST EVERY AILMENT The large-fruited devil’s thorn (Dicerocaryum eriocarpum) can be made into a drink to aid constipation. After soaking it overnight in water, the plant can also apparently be used as a lubricant for animal and human births. We chose to use it as a hand sanitiser before then stopping to eat bush snacks with our sundowners. Brad explained that the African potato bush (Hypoxis hemerocallidea) can help boost the immune system and is said to act as an antioxidant, antiinflammatory, anti-diabetic and anticonvulsant.
(The following day, we tried to be clever and suggested finding some devil’s thorn again before eating our next meal. “It’s OK, we have hand sanitiser,” said Brad.)
NEVER, EVER BURN BRANCHES FROM A TAMBOTI TREE
Many trees make good firewood – this one doesn’t. Early adventurers learnt to their detriment that smoke from burning the tree is highly toxic to humans, either through contaminating cooked food or being directly inhaled. The milky latex it secretes is also dangerous to humans but many animals love it, black rhino in particular.
LEOPARDS ARE DETERMINED – AND
SO ARE HYENAS
We were lucky to see many leopards, including a young female who was not at all happy when a hyena stole her kill from her just yards away from it being successfully hoisted into a tree. As the hyena tucked into a chunky piece of impala, the leopard walked sulkily away from her kill. Normally, that would have been the end of the matter, but this youngster didn’t follow the script. A moment later, and without notice, she turned and crashed noisily through the undergrowth towards the feasting thief.
Fearing he was being attacked by a lion or an elephant, the hyena bolted, leaving the kill to the leopard – who took several huge bites before the sheepish predator ran back to the scene. This to and fro lasted for more than an hour as we sat riveted just yards away.
We reluctantly left as the hyena carried what was left of the impala to a muddy watering hole. Watching from a safe distance, the leopard was clearly calculating when she could move in again for one last mouthful.
10
THERE’S EVEN A NATURAL ANTI-AGEING TREATMENT
As we passed a sausage tree (Kigelia africana), whose branches
look like they have come from a butcher’s window, we were told it can be used to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles on the face, and can even trigger cell regeneration. It was nice to learn that, if we give Mother Nature the respect she deserves, she will always return the compliment.