The Daily Telegraph - Saturday - Money
Give me five
Bell & Ross’s creative director Bruno Belamich introduces Tracey Llewellyn to the new BR 05
Bell & Ross filled a horological niche in 1993 with its aviation-inspired timepieces, and for co-founder and creative director Bruno Belamich, this genre is just one degree of separation from the booming sports watch sector (see page 6). Little surprise, then, that 2019 saw the launch of a slimmed-down bracelet version of Bell & Ross’s familiar square case. Described as “the missing link between tool and dress watch”, the BR 05 is a logical step for a company that follows the principle of function first.
“But most customers won’t buy a watch for that reason. The majority will choose one based on style and design,” says Belamich. “So, for every new collection, I look at past models and try to respond to what sold well, but always bringing something new, because evolution is paramount to survival.” Aware that large, square watches have their audience, but are far from an easy sell – especially to the mighty Asian market – Belamich and his business partner Carlos Rosillo set out to create a piece offering the strong design of the BR 01 and 03 models that are so much a part of Bell & Ross’s recognition, as well as the wearability of a more conventional watch. “We needed to reinvent the square form in something closer to a jewelled bracelet watch,” explains Belamich.
Without doubt, the sporty BR 05 is a departure for the brand: smaller, thinner and with every detail revised. “It fills a gap between our big tool watches and generic gold timepieces,” says Belamich. “We wanted to design a more universally wearable watch so, we changed the dimensions and made the square more rounded.”
The new watch has a 39.5mm case, but it feels smaller thanks to its superb fit and clever use of shape: a circle within a square within an octagon. Launching with a small collection of five models with three dial colours (black, blue and grey), plus a skeleton version and one in rose gold, the watches are available on a bracelet or a rubber strap.
With a resolutely 1970s vibe, they lie on the design spectrum somewhere between a Gérald Genta creation and a Japanese LCD watch from the period. The lugs have been designed to integrate the first bracelet link with the case – essential to ensure the watch fits both large and smaller wrists – and Belamich has hit near-perfect proportions.
All elements in the BR 05 have been reworked over a two-year period, but it is still an obvious Bell & Ross. “The best comparison is Land Rover,” says Belamich. “There is the Defender and the Evoque. The company started with a utilitarian off-roader but it was possible to develop a version perfectly
‘We wanted to design a more universally wearable watch’
adapted to a new demand, situation and person. Likewise, this watch is ideal for everyday wear. It is for the young urban explorer seeking a singular design.”
Most importantly, he adds, it was essential to keep a good price: to that end, the collection starts at £3,600 on a rubber strap. The movement is a reliable Sellita with a bespoke winding rotor in the form of a sports car wheel. For the skeleton version, customisation has gone even further with modified Bell & Ross bridges and plates.
Officially launched last month, the watch is already a success, with buyers contemplating the shape of things to come: a GMT or a chronograph, perhaps? Whatever the future holds, this retro-inspired BR is right on time. bellross.com