Oris’s industrial revolution

For Oris, the release in 2014 of its first watch with an in-house calibre in 32 years was more than just a fitting way to celebrate its 110th anniversary. It also marked a new chapter as a company that once rivalled the giants of the Swiss industry reclaimed the prestige that comes with designing and producing one’s own movements.

In the five years since, Oris’s roster of in-house watches has yielded more of a PR value than a financial one; not surprising for a firm whose sweet spot is around £1,500. But, in the words of CEO Rolf Studer, “that all changes” with the announcement this September of the £5,600 Big Crown ProPilot X, powered by the 10-day Calibre 115. “We want this piece to be seen as part of the collection, as an expression of what Oris stands for today,” explains Studer. In other words, it’s intended to deliver a serious return for the brand.

That is all the more ambitious when you realise how much of an aesthetic jump the ProPilot X is. It may be commonplace from the likes of Audemars Piguet or Richard Mille, but neo-industrial open-working is a world apart from Oris’s usual vintage-inspired aesthetic. Particularly impressive is the way it has resolved the need for structural integrity around the large barrel that holds the power reserve with the dedication to a skeletal design inspired by stealth fighters.

If Oris can parlay the effort behind the ProPilot X into significant sales, it will have overcome a struggle – how to diversify your appeal while retaining credibility – vexing a great many of its peers. Chris Hall oris.ch

Below: the stealth fighter-inspired Big Crown ProPilot X is powered by the 10-day Calibre 115 (shown above)