The Daily Telegraph - Saturday - Money
Beauty and the timepiece
Don’t dismiss high-fashion watches, says Jessica Diamond – the best combine good looks with serious specifications
Watch aficionados can be a little sniffy about fashion brands that dip their toe into the horological arena. After all, why would you eschew big hitters with centuries of purist expertise for a company that makes handbags or tweed jackets?
But don’t judge too quickly – some of the most recognisable luxury maisons are well equipped to create credible, desirable timepieces. With proven and exacting design savvy, big budgets and often a less conservative outlook, they shouldn’t be ignored. Here’s our round-up of the best.
Luxury maisons have proven design savvy, big budgets and a less conservative outlook
2 LOUIS VUITTON Voyager Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon
Louis Vuitton may have started as a purveyor of luggage in 1854, but its watchmaking division La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton is capable of technical innovation and levels of craftsmanship that rival any historical watch manufacture. This year’s Voyager Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon is a tour de force in mechanics, combining two of the most challenging complications in one timepiece. £235,000; uk.louisvuitton.com
5 TOM FORD Tom Ford 002
Tom Ford only entered the watch arena last year with the concisely (and selfexplanatory) named Tom Ford 001. This year’s 002 continues in the same vein with minimal, slick styling, as befits the fashion house. There are steel-case varieties perfect for everyday wear, or opt for the 40mm version with a gold case and black or white dial powered by an automatic movement for a grown-up, elegant timepiece. From £1,850; tomford.co.uk
3 DIOR Grand Bal Pièce Unique Opera No.3
The French house has carved out a niche for itself with the Grand Bal collection, which sees the oscillating weight positioned on the dial side. This year’s Grand Bal Opera sees a new cushionshaped case and a rotor embellished with diamonds and lacquered gold beads in a nod to couture – the perfect marriage of mechanical ingenuity and meticulous craftsmanship. Price on application; dior.com
6 HERMÈS Arceau L’Heure de la Lune
Hermès has come a long way in watch terms since its founding in 1837. The Cape Cod and Heure H are classics in their own right, but it is mechanical masterpieces such as this year’s Arceau L’Heure de la Lune that propel the brand into a different league. The inhouse movement powers two rotating dials (one showing time, the other the date) that ‘float’ over dual moonphases as seen in the Northern and Southern hemispheres. As a mix of whimsy and serious complication it doesn’t get much better than this. £20,500; hermes.com
4 RALPH LAUREN Mini Stirrup
The American mega-brand is a master at sustaining its preppy aesthetic with an unwavering focus. The Stirrup, first launched 10 years ago, borrows many symbols from the tack room, from its name to the tab and stud design of the strap based on a saddle. This year’s Mini Stirrup pavéd with diamonds is a perfect cocktail watch and a refreshing alternative to a more obvious choice. From £3,650; ralphlauren.co.uk
7 DOLCE & GABBANA Manifattura Italiana Firenze
Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana entered the world of high horology in 2017. In the latest collection, 13 examples have been made of six models, which take inspiration from Italian cities. A masterpiece of engraving, the Firenze features an unusual 24-hour display that references the Hora Italica, a 15thcentury method of measuring time as seen in the clock above the main door to the Duomo in Florence. While the look is D&G at its best, the proprietary movement beating inside is pure Swiss. £ 41,000; dolcegabbana.com