British handbags are in the pink, while Topshop salutes the older woman
THE fashion schedule abhors a vacuum. So while Mulberry is not staging a presentation this season, preferring to wait until its new creative director, Johnny Coca, has a few more months under his belt, Hill and Friends, a new bag label from Emma Hill, has stepped into that missing slot entitled “eccentric Brit bag collection”. Judge for yourself how Mulberry will take this news: until two years ago Hill was Head of Bag Success at… Mulberry.
If the appealingly chunky lines and metalware of Hill and Friends’ bags bear a striking resemblance to some of Hill’s greatest hits at Mulberry, yesterday morning’s show mined the same resolute zaniness as Mulberry’s once did. It was also in the same location – Claridge’s.
The theme was pink – and on the assumption that you can never have too much of this somewhat contentious hue, the food was pink, the champagne was pink, the bellboys modelling the bags were dressed in deepest… you’ve guessed, pink-trimmed maroon. Quite a few of the bags were pink, too – with gold locks that, when closed, made a winking smiley face.
It sounds unbearably saccharine, but these are functional, streamlined designs, impeccably made in Somerset (as are Mulberry’s) and many of them are not pink, but black, burgundy and leopard-print (which come to think of it, was pink).
Hill has a track record when it comes to knowing what sells. If, as anticipated, Mulberry’s collections take a new, grown-up, polished direction next year, there is plenty of space in the market for Hill and Friends’ (also polished) playfulness. May they both flourish and bring more jobs to the West Country .
Topshop’s premium Unique label has veered all over the place over the years – one minute aiming at edgy clubbers, the next at latter-day Jackie Kennedys. Yesterday’s spring-summer collection did a clever job of including everyone with pastel apricot leather coats, cropped, slouchy kickflare trousers, softly draped dresses, kimono jackets composed of contrasting printed patterns, and a delectable bow-trimmed slingback stiletto.
A seasoned fashion watcher could tick off the allusions to other designers – from JW Anderson’s bow-fronted leather skirts to Isabel Marant’s footwear. But if shoppers are honest, that’s why they go to Topshop.
Topshop’s sophisticated separates illustrate how even fast-fashion brands are now tilting towards a style-conscious woman who may be in her 40s, 50s or 70s.
The discerning fashionista is the woman Paul Smith has always aspired to serve, and somehow he is managing to put a fresh spin on the trouser suits and flowy dresses that are his (and her) mainstay.
Paul Smith’s new spring collection of trouser suits are double-breasted, neatly fitted jackets with long wide trousers, worn with tangerine or teal flatform sandals and contrasting blouses.
Dresses are loose, or softly structured, with pops of colour from insert panels or large single flower prints – and the dressy dungaree, high waisted with crossover bands, may just change your sartorial life.