BEAUTY MANTRA PUTTING CLICHÉS UNDER THE SPOTLIGHT
Can you wear retinol products during the day?
Retinol has long been hailed as the anti-ageing powerhouse. The vitamin A derivative is famed for smoothing out lines, shrinking pores and plumping up skin. It’s not without its flaws, though, and is highly unstable in formulas – meaning it can cause irritation, including redness, itchiness and peeling. It’s photosensitive, breaking down if exposed to sunlight and increasing your skin’s sensitivity to harmful UV rays.
As a result, retinol has historically been restricted to nighttime use and dermatologists stress the need to apply sun cream the day after using it.
In recent months, a flurry of new products have rectified this downfall though, including retinolbased creams that can be worn during the day. While some experts have praised such advances, others exercise caution. To settle the debate, we asked skin experts where they stand...
Yes, if the correct formula is chosen
Vitamin A comes in many forms. Essentially, retinoic acid stimulates collagen production, but it is highly irritating and difficult to stabilise in formulas. Instead, brands tend to use weaker but more stable versions such as retinyl palmitate, retinaldehyde, retinyl retinoate and retinyl propionate, which have to be converted by your skin several times before changing into retinoic acid. If you haven’t used retinol before, start with a weaker dosage twice a week to build up skin tolerance.
Interestingly, Tracy Tamaris, director of the International Institute for Anti-ageing, argues that, if used correctly, “retinyl palmitate is photoprotective and offers the equivalent of an SPF 20. About 91 per cent of all vitamin A in the skin is stored in this form.” For those not entirely au
fait with the best practice, but keen to try retinol, oculoplastic surgeon and aesthetic doctor Maryam Zamani recommends opting for an encapsulated form, whereby the retinol is coated with stabilising polymer. “The encapsulation prevents the ingredient from becoming oxidised, while also facilitating a controlled release through your skin.” While some forms of retinol might offer sun protection, it’s always advised that you apply a good quality SPF 30 before leaving the house.
No, it works against your skin’s natural rhythm
It’s generally agreed by all cosmetic scientists and dermatologists that your skin has two modes: during the day it’s defending itself against aggressors such as pollution and UV rays, and at night it is repairing any damage. “If you’re using retinol, I would strongly recommend applying the product in the evening only,” says Rabbia Aslam, clinical director for HC Medspa. “Stem cells in the epidermis [the outer layer of skin] reproduce mainly at night and they’re responsible for creating new skin cells, which replace the old ones and reduce the appearance of ageing.” As retinol mimics this natural process, Aslam argues that it’s best to use the ingredient as a night-time booster.
“New cells encouraged by the use of retinol during the day will be damaged by the sun,” warns Dr Daniel Glass from the Dermatology Clinic, who recommends using a broad-spectrum UVA sun cream during the day and applying retinol at night to minimise sun damage.
For those who want to avoid retinol altogether
Plenty of experts advocate avoiding retinol, which can have a handful of unattractive side-effects. Facialist Alexandra Soveral favours a more holistic approach to plumping and smoothing skin. “Massaging the skin daily with nourishing oil is the best anti-ageing treatment for all skin types and once you’re using retinol you can’t practice this, as skin is too sensitive and often dry and peeling,” she says.
‘If you’re using retinol, I would strongly recommend applying the product in the evening only’