SIX OF THE BEST BUYS FOR NEXT SEASON THE KEY LOOKS FROM LONDON’S TOP SHOWS
Sports style at Kent & Curwen
Teamwork and an image of a 1920s Oxford boat race inspired Daniel Kearns at Kent & Curwen, in a collection of striped boating jackets and rugby shirts. The rose emblem and three lions crests nod to David Beckham – the business co-owner of the historical house. The brand also referenced its Hollywood Cricket Club heritage.
Off-duty cool at Dunhill
Never known for its casual clothes, despite being founded as an accessories maker for motor cars, Dunhill’s new creative director, Mark Weston, has ushered in a relaxed air with his debut collection, marrying tailoring that’s synonymous with the house with off-duty pieces, the crowning glory of which were soft suede bombers and dusky pastel jackets.
Wardrobe essentials at Lou Dalton
Designer Lou Dalton (one of the few female designers on the British menswear scene) has pinpointed exactly what makes a modern man’s wardrobe tick – a great pair of trousers, easy shirting and neat jackets with just the right dash of design nous. Alongside such failsafes is a selection of knits in merry, bold shades – guaranteed to create a stylish impact.
Modern suiting at E Tautz
Patrick Grant at E.tautz has always steadfastly mined a particular British subculture reference, mixed with a certain upright appropriateness and a general loosening of the seams. Those voluminous proportions are still in evidence – worn high-waisted with a blazer with a low seat – but alongside a focus on 1980s power-suit rigour, and pinstripes, rendered in bold form on jackets and shirts.
Best of British at Oliver Spencer
The designer cited London as a source of inspiration but alongside lightweight, urban suiting – the classic Nehru collar jackets and cropped trousers in breezy fabrics that are an Oliver Spencer hallmark – he ventured, aesthetically at least, to the seaside with a roster of blue shades in striped patterns, offset with dusk-peach tones. As fresh as a sea breeze and as easy to wear from Marylebone to Margate.
Minimalist cool at Wales Bonner
The designer – hailed as a wunderkind of London menswear, and one of Telegraph Luxury’s 2017 Visionaries – stripped away the decoration that was a hallmark of her gender-fluid men’s clothing to focus on a rigorous cut inspired by Nineties minimalism. The designer’s sharply cut tuxedo trousers and suits with elongated jackets and boot cut trousers offered a modern interpretation of tailoring.