The cardigan as eveningwear
So finally, being cosy is fashionable once again
You may know that the cardigan, originally designed as a sleeveless knitted vest with buttons, found its name after being worn by Lord Cardigan and other officers during the Crimean War. What I didn’t know was that Coco Chanel adopted the cardigan because she hated the way that roundnecked sweaters messed up her hair! I sympathise.
In the Nineties, there was a shop on Fulham Road called Voyage, which acquired a certain notoriety for choosing which customers to allow in. This was based on who the owners knew and liked – anyone else, including some celebrities, were barred from entering.
The shop, not surprisingly, eventually closed. It stocked the most lovely – and extremely expensive – cashmere cardigans, trimmed with contrasting velvet ribbon or lace, which we all craved and few acquired or could afford. I found a copy, along with many others, and wore it until the moths finally demolished it. In those days, I also owned and loved wearing beadembroidered knits that came from places like China, and seemed to fit almost any occasion. How I have missed those days!
Thankfully, we have seen a resurgence of the cardigan as part of a twinset, and on its own as an androgynous addition to the wardrobe of those who enjoy a boyish way of dressing.
And this autumn, it is a wardrobe must-have, as shown heavily textured, beaded, appliquéd and embroidered on the catwalk by both Prada and Gucci, and can be worn both for day and evening. I couldn’t be more delighted: comfortable, practical and now glamorous, too – it is a godsend for those of us who hate being cold.
Looking around, I have found cardigans in every shape and length imaginable (Google “beaded cardigans” and you will be amazed at the choice available, from Gucci to Per Una at M&S) but they seem mostly to be shown with the inevitable pair of jeans or other informal outfit. With a little care they can look very smart over evening trousers, skirts and even dresses. With trousers, I would choose a longer version to cover those areas of my lower body that I am less pleased with these days. With a fuller skirt, I might wear a shorter, more fitted shape, and with a little black dress I would choose a Chanel-style box shape in black or even a lovely embroidered jewel colour.
The big “Higgins” style men’s cardigan (as modelled by Rex Harrison as Prof Higgins in My
Fair Lady) was shown at Christopher Kane over pretty but quite flimsy evening outfits. This is a more difficult look to carry off, and I would feel safer choosing trousers to wear with my Higgins cardigan.
The challenge to make cardigans work for the evening is greater. Find something glamorous in a lovely colour with a bit of embellishment to make it special.
Wear it open over one of Brora’s lace-trimmed camisoles or longsleeved T-shirts. If you find a wrap cardigan, wear it over a satin shirt and dress it up with dangling earrings.
Usually, I advocate less being more but this autumn I rather like the idea of a bit of decoration, so see what you can find. And have some fun.