The hidden codes in Meghan’s clothes
After Ms Markle wears ‘The Husband’ shirt on her first outing, Caroline Leaper unpicks her subtle (and not-so) style
Meghan is ‘keenly aware of the clothing she wears and the messages that she sends’
At first glance, the plain white, slightly oversized shirt that Meghan Markle wore to Monday’s Invictus Games appeared unremarkable. Styling it with ripped jeans by Mother Denim and tan leather Sarah Flint flats, the surface message was that she was relaxed, effortless, and had barely given a thought to the fact that images of this particular outfit would soon be immortalised on the internet. As the look she chose to wear on her first public date with boyfriend Prince Harry, this was, after all, one that could find its way into the fashion history books.
But all was not as it first seemed. An entire network of Markle stylewatchers exists online, addicted to the high of being the first to locate where the could-be-princess’s new outfit might be from and advising other adoring fans on how to get the look for themselves. The “MM” community quickly found the shirt, by Misha Nonoo, a designer who was once married to Harry’s Eton pal Alexander Gilkes. The plot thickens; the shirt in question was called “The Husband”.
“Our contributor Laura identified it within minutes of Meghan first appearing,” says Amanda Dishaw, editor of fashion blog Meghan’s
Mirror, which chronicles the actress’s every outfit online. She believes that Markle is “keenly aware of the clothing she wears and the messages that she sends”, and notes that she will likely have wanted to throw a spotlight on Everlane, the ethical brand which made her handbag, as well as her friend Nonoo’s small business. “What is often overlooked in the coverage of women in positions like Meghan’s, is how their clothing selections offer the only chance we get to ‘hear’ from them,” she says.
Believe it or not, there are a hundred different ways to communicate through one’s clothing. Perhaps subconsciously, you do it yourself every day, with simple choices like a certain colour to reflect your mood, or a sharply cut pair of trousers that make you stand a little taller in that board meeting.
For public figures, the practice can be a little more calculated. The Duchess of Cambridge routinely wears outfits by designers from the nations she is visiting when on tour (coined “dressing diplomatically”), or chooses something that literally ties in with the theme of the event she’s attending. A nautical-inspired epaulette-covered Alexander Mcqueen blouse for the opening of a sailing education centre in Portsmouth, for example, or floral prints at the Chelsea Flower Show. Sometimes the reference is subtle, and sometimes it’s glaringly obvious, but whatever nod the Duchess chooses to give via her clothing tends to go down well with her hosts, as well as giving her public (and we, the waiting fashion press) something new to talk about.
“The language of clothes has always been very important to the monarchy, starting with those ermine-trimmed cloaks,” Ingrid Seward, editor-in-chief of Majesty magazine, explains. “The Queen has always worn bright colours so she is visible in a crowd – she knows block colours are more flattering in photographs. Diana was the market leader in this way of dressing.”
Markle has clearly been observing and, over the last few months, as her relationship has developed, she has given it a go herself. It started with a tiny necklace back in December. A few weeks after Prince Harry had issued a statement confirming he was dating the American actress, Markle emerged wearing a delicate gold chain by jeweller Maya Brenner, with each of their initials on it. She had affirmed the relationship to the world, without saying a word.
Seward reflects that Lady Diana Spencer did something similar before she got engaged, repeatedly wearing a “D” necklace that Prince Charles had given to her. “Diana loved to play like that,” she says. “Initial chains were very fashionable in the early Eighties. Sarah Ferguson had one too, but hers said ‘GB’ – and none of us could ever work out what that meant!”
Another savvy move that Markle has made is to pledge allegiance to the Montreal-born, London-based designer Erdem Moralıoğlu. Canada has been Markle’s adopted home nation since she moved to Toronto in 2011 to work on the hit television show Suits and, of course, she is hoping to make an impression on the British fashion scene. Straddling both, Moralıoğlu could do for her what Alexander Mcqueen has done for the Duchess, and would be a fine choice of go-to dressmaker given his credentials: Kate and her sister Pippa have both worn Erdem on several occasions, and his latest catwalk collection was inspired by the Queen.
Other UK brands have infiltrated Markle’s wardrobe, too. In February, she was spotted wearing a Barbour jacket and Hunter boots as she went shopping on Kensington High Street. She’s added no fewer than four Mulberry bags to her repertoire, and owns pieces from Burberry and Hobbs. The British designers are, understandably, dying to dress her. Finlay & Co, the West London brand whose sunglasses Markle was pictured in at the Invictus Games, has sold more than £20,000 worth of frames this week since the appearance, with their website crashing several times. It is the Kate effect all over again.
“As we start to see more of Meghan in the media, we’ll also start to see the pieces Meghan wears sell out more rapidly,” predicts Dishaw, mirroring “Kate’s ability to ‘make’ a brand [which] is also legendary in the fashion industry.
“Should she join the Royal family, her role would not be as formal as Kate’s, so she will be able to own this more realistic style,” she continues. “It’s easier to see yourself in a fabulous shirt and great sunglasses than in a formal ball gown.”
Just as when the then-kate Middleton revealed her glamorous new engagement ring in that Issa wrap number, or when Diana smouldered in her “revenge” dress, Markle’s “Husband” shirt should go down in history the moment Prince Harry gets down on bended knee.