Anatomy of the perfect suit
It’s a quandary for many men; what should you look for when it comes to pitch-perfect tailoring? Stephen Doig finds out from the key players at London Fashion Week Men’s collections
Just as any maestro di cucina will debate the detailed ingredients in a good puttanesca, so too can your styleliterate man meditate on the various merits of single vs double-breasted, pinstripe vs plain, peak lapel vs notch; the fine details of what goes into creating a really great suit. It’s the quandaries around suiting that draw the greatest response from readers; queries over the height of armholes, the seat of a jacket, two-button or three and whether to opt for something more daring or err on the side of familiar in classic navy.
And who knows better than the stylish fellows at this month’s London Fashion Week Men’s? The bi-annual showcase of menswear drew to a close yesterday, with sharp suiting a mainstay among its most innovative designers, influential buyers and sartorial innovators on the front row.
The ideal suit: suiting was seen across the catwalks at London Fashion Week Men’s (l-r) E Tautz; John Lawrence Sullivan (AW18 will be stocked at brownsfashion. com); and Oliver Spencer
Here they reveal their formula for tailoring with finesse; relegate that boxy blazer to the back of the wardrobe.
Oliver Spencer, designer
To my mind, a man has two choices; unconstructed or constructed. The latter is a much more formal affair, classic, tailored, strong shoulders, traditional silhouette. The former is more casual; it’s the kind of suit you can “break” by using the trouser and jacket separately, it’s softer, with more curved shoulders, wider legs.
Men need to think about the sleeve length; it should run to the middle of your thumb. If you want it more contemporary and cropped a little, it should stop at the base of your thumb. One thing that we’ve noticed a great deal is that for weddings, men are becoming much more adventurous; pink is the third colour after grey and navy, which is quite astonishing. It looks fresh and sophisticated in summer.
Richard Biedul, model
I’m quite slim so until a few years back I assumed that meant I should be in narrow, slim cuts, but
actually I’d advise guys to go in the opposite direction and opt for something more airy with a wider cut of trouser.
The traditional norms of suiting are changing and it pays to be a bit more adventurous – for example a blazer with a rolled shoulder or a wider lapel than normal, which if you’re slight will give you a broader frame. I would avoid lots of accessorising and detail – pocket squares, etc – and let the tailoring do the talking.
Dean Cook, menswear buying manager, Browns Fashion
The key to buying the right suit lies in attention to detail. Whether it’s a formal two-piece for a dinner or a relaxed everyday suit, the little tweaks make all the difference.
While single-breasted jackets are the most common type of suit, we’ve found that most recently our customers are looking for something a little avant garde and unconventional. When shopping, look at a few key factors; the fit, the workmanship and the shape. The cut is the most important element. For a slightly smaller physique, I’d suggest a tailored, slim-fit suit that sits perfectly on the shoulders from the likes of Dior Homme or Saint Laurent. If you’re a gymbod who works out a lot then I’d suggest a relaxed suit from Yohji Yamamoto that wouldn’t restrict your movement.
Toby Bateman, managing director, Mr Porter
The most important thing to consider is end use. Fit is essential but you need to consider the context in which you’ll be wearing it; if it’s office-appropriate then something classic and tailored from Richard James or Canali is the way to go. Then there’s what we call “modern traditional”, which is ostensibly classic but has a contemporary shape – either super narrow or more relaxed. The third type is designer, which is when you want to make a statement in either the fabric or fit.
I would generally recommend a suit that you can envision with a shirt just as well as a T-shirt and trainers; men are changing how they dress and it’s not just about wearing a suit to look smart in. Everyone’s more athletic nowadays but if you’re a gym type I would always advise shying away from anything closely fitted to show off your physique; it doesn’t work and looks strained.
Jack Guinness, model
If you’re going to invest in one suit, make it a classic and then look at how to play with that template. Get something – perhaps a single-breasted lightweight wool suit in black or navy – that can work across formal situations, weddings, etc and then look at how to be more adventurous with it. Think about something like a polo neck instead or a grandad collar shirt. I also love the British heritage look; tweeds, plaids etc. We have a great tradition of suiting in Britain and I think that speaks to that history, and it also allows you to add the full regalia of tie pin, pocket square etc, which is where the fun comes in. Suits should be about enjoying yourself, not about feeling restrained.