The trousers that will see you through every season
Not so long ago, the stretchy skinny seemed invincible, which was fine if you were body-confident and unthinkable if you weren’t.
Now there are at least a dozen silhouettes currently in fashion, from skinny to boyfriend, flared to wide, bootcut to high cut. The paper-bag trouser – self-explanatory name once you see that soft-tie waist – is the newest, and, provided it’s well cut over the bottom (no clumpy undulations) and in a fluid, drapey fabric, it’s one of the most flattering styles around, highlighting waists, lengthening legs (wear them with platforms). No more fussing about tights, thank you.
Pale colours are another flowering style.
But the chicest choices,
I think, are ivory or cream. It may contradict everything we’re always told about clothes contouring, but it looks much fresher than the rut of dark trousers many of us have fallen into, particularly in winter, when pastels can seem sickly. Also counterintuitively, I love velvet year round, on all but the hottest days. It’s so chic contrasted with linen and cotton.
I’m not suggesting you rush into a pair of white drainpipes, but the right kind of wide legs in cream can look effortlessly chic and luxurious teamed with a navy or black sweater or blouse and black velvet ankle boots (or white loafers). Me + Em’s fine white cord flares looked amazing on half The Telegraph’s fashion team this winter, even those of us under 5’5” (it’s all about the shoes). And you can machine wash them – essential if you don’t want huge cleaning bills. But the Me + Em’s have practically sold out. As an alternative, DL 1961’s Hepburn white jeans are ultra flattering, washable and beautifully soft. their USP is Promodal, a blend of Tencel and Modal harvested from sustainably grown forest plantations that requires considerably less water than regular cotton denim to produce
(it also moulds to your body and contains natural stretch). If you’re over the frayed hem detail, get it taken up.
For a more formal take, Joseph has several wide leg cream trouser options this Spring. The topstitched Brod trousers, £395, in cotton ramie
(a natural fluid fibre that’s extremely durable with a subtle lustre) are especially sleek, with large, flat pockets at the back, the better to give bottoms a neat lift. According to Mariam Boutorabi, head of Womenswear Design at Boden where they try their trousers on various bodies to get the most flattering median, “generally, the higher the pockets the better your bottom will look. Small pockets tend to make your rear look bigger. Size matters.”
As paper bag sashes, culottes and pastels demonstrate, it’s perfectly possible to find trousers that, physically and psychologically, do everything a skirt does – from accentuating your ankles to making you look sleek and feel feminine. If it’s prettiness
you’re after, team your trousers with tie-neck silk blouses or ruffles. For a full-on diva moment, add a beaded cape. If you’re hovering indecisively over a pair for a really big night out, pull up a picture of Meghan Markle’s Mcqueen tuxedo suit. It may prove to be a turning point for formal Royal dressing.
Yet some women still think they can’t wear trousers. Granted, they’re probably the hardest garment for design teams to get right, but the plethora of loose cuts means there’s a bit more leeway. A lightweight indoor-outdoor coat is another useful ally, gliding over any hip or thigh issues, and can be an easier-towear alternative to a trouser suit, while delivering similarly polished results. Maxmara Weekend and Joseph are good sources.
High waistbands make legs look longer, but should be offset against other considerations. If you’re small or big busted, exaggeratedly high waists throw everything out of whack, and finding tops to go with will be a faff. The best waistline is one that sits on or just above the navel. The ideal leg-elongating length is as close to the floor as possible, without actually touching it. The drapier the fabric, the more elegantly they’ll fall. A stiffer more structured wool needs to be a fraction shorter so it doesn’t break awkwardly on the front of your shoe. A 7/8th should stop at the narrowest part of your leg, usually a centimetre above your ankle.
Many dry cleaners will undertake simple alterations. It’s worth finding a proper tailor though, because they can elevate your trousers to another level. I take all my trousers to Artesian Tailoring in Notting Hill (020 7221 7535) because Abdul there is a designer manqué. Actually he’s better than that because he really knows how to fit to the body. He will practically remodel a pair to make them ultra flattering and uplifting. It’s the best £30 you’ll spend (apologies for being West London-centric – it happens to be my ’hood and I can vouch for his expertise. There are good tailors in many towns and they deserve our support). Shoe wise, if you’re short, you’ll need platforms, or chunky flat-form trainers with your wide leg trousers (don’t worry if you don’t like the way they look, they’ll be mostly hidden).
A slim cut or 7/8th crop invariably looks better with a slight heel. If you’ve got good legs, you can get away with narrow trousers and flat brogues or backless loafers.
So yes, there is some initial groundwork to be done. Not for nothing are trousers one of the most returned items. Let’s repeat this one: you NEED to try them on – in front of at least two mirrors, one in front, one behind. Pay particular attention to the rear view when you’re trying on drawstring or elasticated waists as they can often look terrible from the back. Whatever the specifications, sit down in them a few times prior to purchase to ascertain how much they’ll crease or sag. A bit of stretch is fine, but it’s often used as a substitute for proper tailoring and doesn’t always spring back the way it should. If you’re internet shopping, order two sizes. It’s tempting to settle for an imperfect fit because you can’t be bothered to do the returns admin, but if you have to send back one pair anyway, you’ll only keep the others if they are perfect.
Finally, mostly you get what you pay for – Alexander Mcqueen and Roland Mouret trousers are so well cut they’re worth every penny. They’re a lot of pennies however. Price isn’t always a guarantee; M&S’S Wide Leg Turn-ups (£35 and not too wide) are an excellent classic standby that wash well. Ultimately, fit is highly individual, but the trousers on this page aren’t just the most current shapes and silhouettes, but come from brands the Telegraph fashion team has come to rely on.
White and Wide
No easier, chic-er way to freshen up your trouser repertoire. Avoid the skinny, embrace the washable. The chicest around are from Joseph (they’ve trouserexcelled this season).
The Modern Classic
The Fold’s Donmar Trousers – wool with 5 per cent Elastane – are an excellent cut on petite figures, with that crucial but barely perceptible kick hem. Extra points for the dark bottle green – a refreshing update on black.
Mannish – with Top Stitching
Small detail, big impact. Me + Em’s come in two silhouettes: the manpant and the crop. Both are satisfyingly weighty, which means they skim thighs and perk up bottoms. This label specialises in flattering everywoman trousers with six key shapes in numerous fabrications.
Velvet
Yes you can wear it practically year round in Northern Europe. So chic with bare ankles and linen or cotton. These are pulls-ons with a slightly tapered narrow leg for that glam-casual vibe.
The Paper Bag
When Boden’s customers – many of them dress lovers – respond as well as they have been to this style, you know the Paper Bag has mainstream appeal. Start with softer, drapey fabrics and check the rear view. Accessorise them as you would a skirt, cinching in at the wait to maximise the feminine factor.
Checks
Ubiquitous on the front row, when they’re right, they’re so right. Mcqueen’s Prince of Wales cropped trousers are the dream, but with all styles it’s a question of trying on. Warning: anything tight will make lines go wonky – a very bad look. Polka dots, this year’s favourite other pattern, may be more forgiving. Note the white loafers – instant updaters. No tan required: it’s 2018.
The Cropped Kick Flare
Another classic. A medium rise will elongate legs and the hem will counterbalance thighs. Arket’s becoming a go-to for this style. Unless you’re tall they’re best with heels.
Culottes
Keep the top half neat – belting makes everything look ten times sharper and shapelier and footwear can veer into oldschool glamour, for results that are just as vampish as the pencil skirt (spring’s other “key” piece), but far more modern.