MAN FRIDAY OSCAR-WORTHY STYLE
Formal wear is getting a shakedown and our leading men are heading the charge, says Stephen Doig
Icame of age in the Nineties, at a time when Hollywood red-carpet style meant a procession of apologetic actors in shiny suits. They were baggy – as was the cut and silhouette at the time
– and uniform, often worn with questionable frameless sunglasses and boot-cut trousers. If it wasn’t a sack-like grey suit, it was the go-to tuxedo, starched, stiff and as standard issue at middle-america proms as it was to the Oscars.
Which is why it was so refreshing to see some bold choices on the Oscars red carpet earlier this week, as part of a gradual trickle that’s seen more and more silver screen golden boys embrace something more unique and striking. A great tuxedo is never going to go out of style, but a man has his whole life to wear a sleek dinner jacket and dressing up should be about enjoying it, not just looking appropriate, as Chadwick Boseman showed in his embroidered, jewel-encrusted coat from Givenchy instead of traditional black tie.
Giorgio Armani has long gone hand-in-hand with Academy Award style, but Armie Hammer’s plush velvet number from the house was a cut above. It’s rare to see a full suit in velvet, and can be a tricky double act as the fabric can look weighty and cumbersome, but Hammer’s is – as one would expect – neatly tailored and in a rich berry shade that also looks masculine. Get
Out star Daniel Kaluuya also looked pin sharp in Italian designer Brunello Cucinelli’s first foray into eveningwear, a toffee shaded velvet tuxedo, while ingénue Timothee Chalamet looked pristine in all white, which sounds like novelty dressing but actually looked elegant.
And while most of us rarely get a chance to showcase a red-carpet ready look, such tweaks and nods to nonconformity are worth bearing in mind as we gear up for the spring regattas and summer weddings that require a degree of formality.
So what tips can we take away? Firstly, depending on the situation, a great coat can be just as sharp as a good suit; one with a razor cut and an impactful detail, worn with a shirt, can see you through a party in panache; also handy when you’re eager to pop by and make a hasty exit.
Secondly, while I’m the first to exalt the showy joys of an evening slipper or patent Oxford shoe, the evening boot – as shown on Shawn Mendes – is becoming “a thing”; worn with slightly cropped trousers, it looks more rugged and less ceremonial. And if you’re a stickler for a proper, upright, serious tuxedo, go ahead by all means, but consider tinkering with the format; James Marsden did so by pairing his cream jacket with a fresh, opennecked white shirt in lieu of a bow tie, while Tom Holland’s version was narrow and worn high on the lapels. You might not be destined for Best Actor, and Adam Rippon’s bondage tux from Moschino might be a touch much for the Rotary Club drinks, but it’s worth having a bit of fun with the old familiar after-dark formula every now and then.