Lo-fi minimalism enters the digital age
French fashion house Céline has launched e-tail for the first time – just in time for us to buy into departing designer Phoebe Philo’s final designs, says Victoria Moss
In a world awash with competitive narcissism and vanity, it’s perhaps not surprising that a silent aesthete can have the greatest impact. Phoebe Philo, who announced her departure from a 10-year tenure at French house Céline just before Christmas, has – whether you’re aware of it or not – left an indelible mark on your wardrobe. Her quick flit out at the end of her catwalk shows could launch a new trend in seconds. For as much as the clothes she designed there had a huge impact – on the high street (like COS? You’re a Philophile) as well as at other luxury labels – so did her own wardrobe. When she wore a pair of white adidas Stan Smiths in 2011 she reignited passion for the trainers last seen milling around Camden market in 1996.
Her work at the house struck a fervent chord with women exasperated by the naffness of the Noughties. Her proposition of a world framed with the pared back and minimal was a salve to anyone who felt alienated by six-inch spikeheeled platforms or – God forbid – Hervé Léger bodycon. If you’ve wondered what took Victoria Beckham from queen of the Baden-baden Wags to slick fashion business woman, a quick study of Philo’s work over the last decade reveals how she was influenced to tone down the spice.
Philo is a master of throwing an avant-garde spin on to something and making it seem not only reasonable, but a sell-out. See her fur-lined sandals (for summer), £600 skater trainers and the now ubiquitous Box handbag. She’s also given us fluted midi skirts, long tunic tops, wide-leg trousers and cashmere wool Crombie coats that once on, you’d quite happily sleep in (given the cost, you might have to).
She is the woman’s woman designer, offering comfort, authority and style as well as that essential je ne sais quoi that you need to even begin justifying forking out for this level of luxury creation. The fashion world – not known for its reserved emotions – is understandably in mourning at her departure, especially given the about-turn appointment of Hedi Slimane to fill her spherical squat heels. Slimane, last seen offering up skin-tight catsuits and thigh-grazing puffball miniskirts at Saint Laurent, would seem to be the antithesis to the more subtle elegance of Philo – yet one must reserve some judgment for his first collection, which will be shown this September. There are two final Philo collections: the penultimate is just now on sale – and before you fear a bun fight at the Mount Street store (although you should go just to gaze upon the exquisite patchwork marble flooring that Slimane is rumoured to be ripping up) – the brand, which only launched an Instagram account last year, is now available for the first time to buy online at 24sevres.com. This is ecommerce arm of Paris’s Le Bon Marché – essentially the Liberty London of the Left Bank.
There is a choice selection of such pieces – as well as a smattering of exclusives. If you were me, you’d currently be salivating over the red cat-eye sunnies, pink Cabas tote and white pleated asymmetric hemmed midi skirt: all excellent investments. Of course, if the thought of dropping that much on your credit card makes you feel a bit tense, then there’s always the Bicester Village outlet – the last time I was there, so was British Vogue contributing fashion editor Kate Phelan as well as a senior PR from a rival luxury house. It’s an industry hotspot – but very much worth grazing your elbows for the final chance to be Philo’d (plus, this collection will take a little longer to find its way there, so you have more time to save). Sob.