The magnificent seven you need in your wardrobe
What I want to know about ye olde royal custom of the Lindo Wing is, “was Kate cold?” When Princess Diana emerged – like Kate, wearing red – on those shady steps after giving birth to Harry, she was almost as swaddled as the baby. That was September, a month that’s generally far more balmy than April.
The Duchess of Cambridge’s interpretations of Diana’s post-partum outfits (the little blue polka dot dress vis-à-vis Diana’s voluminous, milkmaid version after William was born and the snappy red Jenny Packham number versus the coat and blouse combo of the late Princess of Wales) speak volumes about how much fashion priorities have shifted in the past three decades.
If there’s a single narrative about how women are meant to look now, it’s effortless – but always glossy. Whether you’ve given birth seven hours earlier or you’re a human rights lawyer, sleek perfection is required.
But not, apparently, a coat. The other fashion conceit is that women in the public eye have thunderously good circulation. The Oscars, Baftas and Cannes have colluded in the deception, despite temperatures at all of them being notoriously chilly.
The upshot is that while there are any number of gorgeous dresses, coats and jackets out there, most of them aren’t necessarily designed to go together.
I like to think that over the years I’ve learned how to build a wardrobe that spans most exigencies, but in the past couple of weeks I’ve found myself doing the hanger waltz. You may know it. You pull out an outfit, put it on and think, “not bad”, glance out the window, decide you need some kind of cover up, can’t find one that works, remove outfit. And start again.
It’s amazing how many great looks are killed with the wrong top layer.
It’s not only about finding the right weight cover-up, but one that works proportionally, both with your shape and what you’re wearing. I don’t mean a shroud, a shapeless cardigan, and definitely not the dreaded waterfall cardi, but something that adds to the overall picture, either with colour, decoration, texture or silhouette.
The Silky Trench
This season’s drapey designs bring the trench into new territories. Glossy enough for evening (you could try it as a trench-dress, or slipped over a pair of smart trousers), the silky trench is a shape-shifter that can be cinched in or worn open over a crisp shirt or sweater. Check out Vince’s Drapey Satin Trench (it’s actually viscose, either buttermilk or navy) or Me + Em’s eco-friendly khaki Lyocell take. The best length is a lower midi, which will work with most dresses. Or try a mid thigh (Vince has one of those too), which would look good over dresses as well as trousers and slides over jumpers without looking bulky. Look for: pockets, contrasting buttons. Avoid: excess fabric.
For extra impact, substitute the matching belt for a leather or metallic one.
The Kimono
Like the silky trench, it can be belted or worn loose. As a top layer, it works beautifully, looks good on all sizes and shapes – including women who shy away from lapels – and is an easy way to incorporate pattern and colour. Look for: good fabrics
(vintage is an excellent source).
Avoid: sleeves that dangle in everything.
You are not Confucius.
The Double Face, Unlined Coat
This is the ultra luxurious option – Maxmara’s can cost as much as £2,000 – although increasingly you can find classy versions that don’t break the bank, including from Maxmara’s sister labels, Maxmara Studio and ‘S Max Mara (starting around £450). Good with trousers and dresses (provided you get the length right) these can be more elongating than a cropped jacket. Check out Jigsaw, Winserlondon.com’s reversible cotton coat (£140), and Joseph. Look for: minimalist details; softness; a flattering, non-boxy cut and uplifting shades – the more stunning the colour, the less like a heavy overcoat it will look. Take a cue from Brigitte Macron, who has updated the matching coat and dress combo. Avoid: bulky pockets
The Decorative Utility Jacket
Yes it’s a contradiction, but don’t tell the “Form Follows Function” brigade. For those who don’t like to look or feel too “lady”, a khaki cotton jacket with luxe elements – embroidery, inserted pleats or in a glossy fabric – solves a lot of dilemmas. Look for: shape – a straight up and down parka is not fit for our purposes, you need something lightweight with a drawstring or tailored waist. Avoid: overly fussy details.
The Cape
Meghan Markle and Melania Trump have been cape dabbling lately, with mixed results. Full disclosure: yours truly has an embellished one she doesn’t wear often, but when she does, it’s a hit, adding glamour to plain evening dresses or tuxedo trousers. Capes are love-hate. I had one that made me look like a bat – it was black. I think Melania may know that feeling. Lesson learned. Look for: soft, drapey fabrics in pale colours. Avoid: stiffness. Satin could invoke Dracula – original as style influencers go, but not in a good way.
The Bolero
Charlie Gowans-eglinton, of this parish, cast aspersions on the bolero this week. I agree they can look mumsy if you go for a voluminous cut. Slightly above the waist elongates legs, whether you’re wearing trousers, a skirt or a dress (the Duchess of Cambridge almost always wears a slightly high waist). Et voila, Me+em to the rescue with the Every Occasion Bolero, which founder Clare Hornby created “to sit just where dresses and jumpsuits go in”. It’s in cream with a grosgrain stripe to give it just the right amount of edge. Look for: a slim fit. Avoid: wearing with drop waisted dresses or hipsters – messy.
The Blazer
If you’re looking for warmth, light wool or summer tweed are your best bet. If you’re pattern averse, try velvet, which used to be verboten in summer, but looks lovely, especially over a chiffon or silky dress. Single breasted can accommodate fussy necklines underneath. Double breasted requires simplicity. Waist contouring is the way to go if you’re petite. Look for: the right length sleeves. They shouldn’t be longer than just above or on your wrist. Avoid: anything too oversized – fashionable but silly.