The Daily Telegraph

French MPS at pains over their patisserie

- By Henry Samuel in Paris

A LINGUISTIC dispute over what to call one of France’s best-loved pastries has reached the corridors of power, with MPS insisting the word “chocolatin­e” be recognised as an official alternativ­e to “pain au chocolat”.

A group of Right-wing MPS triggered heated debate after tabling an amendment to a wider farming and food law that would establish the term for the staple of the French breakfast table.

“Pain au chocolat” is the most common term for French and foreigners alike, but in a corner of south-western France, the term “chocolatin­e” is widely used and a source of regional pride.

Weighing in on the linguistic tussle, the MPS proposed modifying the Countrysid­e and Fisheries code “to raise the profile of the customary name” for well-known local products.

Aurélien Pradié, an MP from the Lot department, backing the amendment, said it would boost many local products. “This is not just a chocolatin­e amendment. It’s an amendment that aims to protect popular expression­s that give value to culinary expertise.” The proposal sparked a slew of comments on social media. One suggested that conservati­ve MPS were seeking to score a political victory by trying to turn “chocolatin­e” Right-wing.

It is widely held that the pastry was introduced in France from Austria in the 1830s by August Zang, who called it schokolade­n-croissant, which gradually morphed into a “chocolatin­e”. “Pain au chocolat” was historical­ly a more general term for any bread containing chocolate. There was eventually a crossover, but the south-west region stuck with “chocolatin­e”.

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