Victoria Moss
The perfect shades for styling out the summer sun
Gracious, it’s been hot, hasn’t it? I have just ordered a giant paddling pool – with seats
and cup holders. I fully recommend. You’re confused, you’ve come here to be told what to wear and I’m on about inflatables – the sun’s addled my brain. Linen, just wear loose, wafty linen.
Here’s the thing that will really set you apart: a decent pair of sunglasses. Nothing ages a look more than the wrong sunglasses; a bad frame can add a layer of American Dad that no one needs. Prince William had a thing a while back for those wraparound mirrored lens ones you probably last considered buying in Val-d’isère around 1993. His wife does a stealth Ray Ban Wayfarer, and I respect her for that. There’s something solid about choosing a classic and sticking with it. It’s also a clear way of showing that you’re above the fripperies of a glittery frame.
I would counsel too that there is a shift away from a showier sunglass, they’ve shrunk… those massive, face-covering blocks feel too much, too Melania, too WAG 2006. The marketing buzzword du jour is “authentic”, no fake news here, no giant blackout frames to hide behind. It’s a little more earnest and low key, a bit less rude. Less Wintour.
Giant bug-like frames? Over. Those enormous Prada swirly arm ones? Dated. Metal rims and bridges, half-frame-acetate are more au courant. Net-aporter has increased its buy for smaller styles by tenfold. Roberi & Fraud is one of its new brands that is already selling out of its petite round frames.
A neat frame can be very business-like, smart. The cat’s eye is having a resurgence. I’ve always avoided them as past iterations have felt too Fifties pastiche, but the new versions have a less Dame Edna point; more of a gentle slope up to the corner than a sharp tilt. It’s very flattering – especially if you find styles that skirt just under your eyebrows.
Céline has an excellent version – a bit Instagram-it girl, but also fabulous (sometimes the selfies don’t lie).
I found a slightly more subtle pair, in black, also available in tortoiseshell, at Jimmy Fairly – a new Parisian import (25 stores across France) that has just opened on Regent Street and has plans to open 14 more across the country. Founded by two ambitious graduates in 2010 – Antonin Chartier and Sacha Bostoni – it has a start-up mentality, with a transparent approach. Their aim is to modernise the process of buying glasses, away from the slightly fusty, clinical approach of traditional opticians. They describe their stores as having a “lifestyle” concept – which means the glasses are displayed surrounded by chic pottery, assorted objects and foliage. Sounds pretentious, but it gives a relaxed feel.
Crucially, they have a direct operation with their factories (which also manufacture heavyweight luxury brands) and their own lab in Normandy, where all glasses are made within around a week of ordering in store. The crux of this, that without licensing agreements and expensive middle men where everyone needs to take a cut, is that they can offer lenses and frames for £99. There are no hidden extras. The majority of their offer sits at this price, going up to no more than £145 (again, lenses and frames).
Chartier is aping the shrewd approach of Zara – with its constant drops of newness to keep customers coming back: alongside the permanent collection, it offers 25 new limited edition fashionconscious styles every month. So you can always find something a bit snazzy, which is my bugbear when trying to find great prescription sunglasses. The brand name references James Dean (Bostoni’s a fan) while “Fairly” refers to its policy of donating a pair of glasses to international non-profit Restoring Vision, which provides them to people unable to afford glasses.
They offer free in-store eye tests and cover varifocals and other trickier prescriptions. The majority of the sunglasses are also available with prescription frames. I was impressed – it’s a sexy proposition and not just because of the heavily Frenchaccented optician, although, I can’t lie, he did help.
Happily, the space for affordable frames and a looser, cooler – cheaper – attitude to buying glasses is a growing market. This is excellent news if, like me, you’re a glasses wearer but disinclined to spend a fortune on them. Cubitts (cubitts. co.uk) is a lovely home-grown brand that offers classic frame styles in myriad colours from £125 all in lenses and frames.
There is also Finlay & Co, which has the pedigree of having been worn by the Duchess of Sussex. It opened its first store just off Carnaby Street six months ago, which again has a fresher, laid-back atmosphere. Eye tests are redeemable from purchase and you can get frames and lenses for around £150. It is also hot on the concept of slightly nostalgic but verywearable styles in lots of different colours – available as an optical or sunglass – which is great if you’re a creature-ofhabit glasses wearer and like to use your specs as a sort of mission statement.
One thing Finlay & Co does very well is clear-tinted acetate frames. I’m slightly cautious – I had a clear pair of frames years ago and they went a yellowy colour on the bridge. But I’m trying out a pale-pink-tinted pair. Fingers crossed for longevity. If you’re wedded to bigger frame styles, perspex versions feel a lot lighter – Karen Walker does a very cool cats-eye version.
Another new niche brand worth taking a look at is Monc. This British just-launched label takes sustainability and its sourcing very seriously – it works with a Neapolitan factory that makes each pair one at a time and by hand. The quality is impeccable, frames are delivered in English handmade leather pouches, and come with an optical screwdriver key ring for tightening up when they get loose. Only available online (monclondon.com), and only sunglasses, but if you don’t need a prescription it’s worth a look. The styles are all named after hipster areas but don’t let that put you off. There is a lot here to admire. I like the Kreuzberg, it has a bit of a Seventies touch, in a good way. A final word on the vogue for coloured frames: I initially dismissed it as too throwaway but the other day, on the Tube, I saw a lady with the most exquisitely coordinated look. She had a luscious silver bob, red-framed glasses, black trousers and top, with red shoes, red bag and a red lip. So my advice is this: be consistent. If you’re prepared to go the whole hog, it could well pay off…