How the wedding cake became as cheesy as the DJ’S playlist

A DENSE fruit cake has for generations been an integral part of any wedding – whether or not the couple enjoy dried fruit.

However, the tide is turning against sugary desserts, and couples are swapping confectionery for piles of cheese truckles decorated with flowers to look like a tiered cake.

Waitrose has reported a huge rise in sales for its cheese wedding “cakes” – a trend also reported by dairy shops across the country.

The supermarket revealed that the cakes, often made of Gouda, stilton and Brie, have become increasingly popular, with sales of cheese wedding cakes up an average of 49 per cent compared with last year.

Andy Swinscoe, owner of The Courtyard Dairy in Settle, in the Yorkshire Dales, has been selling cheese wedding cakes for five years. He said the cheese “cakes” gave a good alternative for people who wanted to avoid sugar, and for couples who wanted their wedding to be different.

Mr Swinscoe explained: “A lot of people like the whole experience – they come to our shop and taste the cheese, and it’s a real experience. A lot of people want to avoid sugar –

‘Cheese cakes are a beautiful balance of flavours and textures, and pair wonderfully with dry cider’

and also, a lot of people do not like fruit cake.

“People even take cheese home from these weddings as party favours. It’s something a bit different, and something of a talking point. We’ve been doing it for five years – popularity has massively increased in recent years.”

After a banquet of rich food, revellers often prefer a slice of cheese with a glass of wine rather than a piece of dense cake, he added.

Jo Carman, Waitrose entertaining buyer, added: “There’s no doubt that a slice of cheese to celebrate a marriage is gaining in popularity.

“With Waitrose, the bride and groom can opt for a completely British wedding cheese cake, including a Hafod Welsh organic cheddar, a Cropwell Bishop stilton and a Cornish yarg. The cake is a beautiful balance of flavours and textures, and pairs wonderfully with dry cider or a crisp floral riesling.”

Alison Hepworth, the Waitrose Weekend magazine news editor, said she opted for one as a centrepiece at “my thrifty nuptials”. She said that as well as being easy to decorate, they doubled up as the evening meal served with bread or biscuits and a few chutneys and pickles.

She added: “The news came of little surprise to me: cheese wedding cakes make sense because they are practical and great value but also beautiful.”