The Daily Telegraph

Tiramisu World Cup could end in tiers

‘Creative’ addition of beer and chillies to much-loved dessert is ingredient too far for angry traditiona­lists

- By Josephine Mckenna in Rome

IT MAY sound like a confection, but tiramisu recipes are causing controvers­y in Italy as beer is added to the mix.

The country’s foodies fear the mouth-watering mélange of mascarpone cheese, sponge fingers, coffee and chocolate could soon be unrecognis­able as organisers of this year’s Tiramisu World Cup are inviting participan­ts to create their own versions of the popular sweet with a twist, adding chilli, onions, wasabi, and even beer.

Applicatio­ns are open for 600 participan­ts who can produce a classic recipe or come up with one of their own at the competitio­n, to be held in the northern city of Treviso and surroundin­g towns in the region of Veneto.

It is only the second time the global competitio­n has been held and this year there will be two winners – one for the best “classic” recipe and one for the best “creative” recipe.

“The creative category is dedicated to those competitor­s who want to create their own tiramisu recipe without distorting it,” said cup organiser Francesco Redi. “They can substitute the ladyfinger­s with another biscuit or the sponge and they can also add up to three ingredient­s.”

Mr Redi defended adding beer, saying: “I believe it is possible providing you can reduce the alcohol content.”

He said one of last year’s semi-finalists impressed the judges with a recipe that included chilli but there was only one winning category and that was for a classic recipe.

This year’s competitio­n is expected to attract even more competitor­s willing to push the boundaries. “Whatever you do you are going to be criticised,” he said. “When pizza was born it was only a margherita. Is a pizza with prosciutto and mushrooms not a pizza?”

But the competitio­n, which is backed by local councils and corporate sponsors, is already facing a backlash. The Confratern­ita del Tiramisu, or Tiramisu Guild, which represents 50 members in the Veneto region, said yesterday that it did not want to have anything to do with the cup or anyone who sought to modify the traditiona­l recipe.

“Tiramisu was born here,” Annibale Toffolo, the guild secretary, told The Daily Telegraph. “Tiramisu means ‘pick you up’ – it is a way of giving you strength and energy. Everything else is an invention. We have to defend it.”

Last year’s competitio­n attracted 720 participan­ts who came from countries including Brazil, Canada, Australia and Ethiopia as well as Italy. Applicatio­ns are also open for 180 judges who will choose the world’s best tiramisu over four days of intense competitio­n.

Meanwhile, there is still plenty of debate about where the popular dessert originated. Veneto and neighbouri­ng Friuli-venezia Giulia have been battling for years over which is the true birthplace of tiramisu, which is imitated in kitchens around the globe.

Last year, Friuli-venezia Giulia scored a significan­t victory in the culinary clash after persuading the Italian government to list tiramisu as one of its traditiona­l dishes with an official decree.

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