Four classic workwear dilemmas solved
The new wave of no-rules party dressing has given sparkly outfits a licence to thrill any time you like, says Victoria Moss
Can you talk about sequins without mentioning a paso doble, samba or an Argentine tango? You know what, I’m going to try. Because in spite of what low-grade celebrities skipping across television studio floors might be wearing on a Saturday night, sequins have edged back from an off-strip Vegas warm-up act to something with enough cool for me to crack out these dodgy metaphors for the next few hundred words. OK, I’ll stop. And anyway, it’s not entirely true.
In some stylish parts sequins have been racking up kudos for years. See Ashish Gupta, the London Fashion Week designer who has specialised in exquisitely handcrafted, largely sequin-drenched pieces with a hefty dose of wit (he’s covered supermarketstyle shoppers in them, scripted them into logos such as “all I want is love” and, a personal favourite, “life is exhausting and people are so annoying”) for nearly two decades.
The only snag was for most of that time they were solely for a luxury customer. Now though, thanks be to Liza Minnelli (I’m not stopping), you can snap up his sharp-eyed offer at Warehouse, which launches its collaboration on November 15.
The collection features a pretty zippy yellow trench coat, red trousers and iridescent high-neck top, which would be great with a chic pair of trousers or even jeans, the key is to not overthink it. “A T-shirt should feel as glamorous as an evening gown, and an evening gown should feel as comfortable as a T-shirt,” says Gupta. “Sequins have a magical quality about them. They ‘light you up’. I love how they add the quality of light to colour, how they hang on the body, how they move.” If you do have funds to spend, it’s worth keeping an eye out for his exclusive collection with Browns Fashion, launching at the end of the month – with such slogan treats as, “you can’t touch this” and “I don’t fancy you/i really don’t” on T-shirts.
A newer name who has also fallen for the design and technical challenge of sequin embroidery is London-based American Michael Halpern. His eponymous line has been racking up the celebrity endorsements from as far and wide as Amal Clooney, Adwoa Aboah, Lupita Nyong’o and Marion Cotillard, since its launch in 2016. Halpern produces everything in small factories in London, which is why his main line is quite eye-wateringly expensive – it’s pricier to produce here. But it is encouraging to know that the workroom talent certainly exists if you’re willing to put in the time to seek it out, as he has.
“I love sequins and all the colours, it wasn’t necessarily the medium that got me going, it was about finding something that is so visually overwhelming and exciting to look at,” he says.
“Sequins have this beautiful escapist quality, the sound, the feel, the way a piece can look different at three different times of day in a different light,” he enthuses, citing Nan Kempner, Diana Ross, Tina Turner and Anjelica Huston as his eternal style icons. His work process is intense,
with every piece created painstakingly by hand; he is also a stickler for traditional techniques. Bustier tops are all correctly boned and canvas-lined, the inside of one of his pieces is as much a work of art as the exterior.
Yet, he’s keenly aware that very few can afford his prices, so he’s teamed up with Topshop for a “one-off ” festive collection, on sale today. “I think now there is a way of dressing up that still feels formal but can be really modern; maybe you’re wearing some beaten-up boots, or something else that grounds you. I like seeing a woman with a tailored jacket over one of my dresses.”
Ultimately this is the crux of the au courant sequin wearer – something needs to be a little off. Designer Racil Chalhoub, who has turned her uptown-cool eye on to a burgeoning line of luxe tailoring and party clothes, offers that “sequins have always been cool, it is just how you wear them that make the difference. I like contrast so I would pair a sequin dress with biker boots, or a bodysuit with jeans and a large cardigan to dinner.”
Although given that she’s named one of her sparklers Judy, clearly she’s not totally out of touch with kitsch classics.
Thankfully for the full-throttlefestive-dresser, there are numerous sharp glitz options out there this season. I love Ganni’s shirt dress, which for me is the perfect chic take on the new look.
Rixo London, which is riding high on the back of being the newest go-to for what cool-girls-wear-to-get-dressedup-in, has some brilliant finds, particularly its deep-red, puff-sleeve midi dress and pretty sequin-covered blouses. The most useful part of this refocused way to add bling to every outfit opportunity, means that you can get a huge amount of wear from these pieces rather than saving for best – making that cost per wear ratio increasingly palatable. In this way, simple pieces like a T-shirt are given extra punch, so you feel special but not exposed and overly trussed up.
Henrietta Rix, co-founder of the label agrees. “We don’t feel like sequins have to be worn for a special occasion. We feature sequins on floaty romantic shapes with blouson sleeves, rather than anything heavily structured or lined, so they can be worn with heels for an event or dressed down with trainers for a bolder daytime look.”
Of course, you’re probably either a woman with a penchant for spangle, or not. If you’re a true connoisseur then bookmark November 17, when some of Bob Mackie’s most famous pieces will be auctioned in LA ( juliensauctions.com).
Amusingly, Halpern dresses in head-to-toe (matte) black every day, with the exception of a few pairs of sequinned socks for special outings. His dog, Rupert, isn’t subject to the same restrictions; he’s made him a rainbow-coloured ensemble. And yes, he’s seen Strictly.
“I love how ridiculous it is,” he offers, sounding slightly bemused. “I love the colours and the make-up. But I watch it with the sound off, I don’t like the music so much, and I don’t know… they seem a little snobby on that show. I don’t know how I feel about that.”
The democratic voice of sequins has spoken. Take note, Mr Revel Horwood.