Classic style rules for the modern man
From beard oils and brogues to pocket squares, Stephen Doig and Lee Kynaston solve your conundrums
When other men find out what I do for a living, they have the same questions. Men are curious about style, about how to break the mould, even if it’s not the sort of chat for the pub. It’s also a privilege; I’d far rather hear from readers about suiting queries than receive another press release. It’s that grey (pinstriped) area, and variants that are asked about most often; there’s a common ground in what men are curious about, starting almost always with suiting. Got your own queries? Email me at Stephen.doig@telegraph.co.uk Q I love the idea of custommade suits but they’re so A expensive. Where can I go? The ceremony of having a bespoke suit made is something every man should experience at least once. But fully bespoke – choosing the fabric, cut, details etc – yourself is a serious investment. Suit Supply offers a bespoke suit for less than £500, while niche tailors such as Tailor Made and Cad & The Dandy offer bespoke from £750 and £1,000, respectively. But it’s also worth considering semi-bespoke, where suits “off the rack” are adjusted for your frame; even in high street brands such as Reiss, Ted Baker and M&S.
Havana wool suit, £379 (suitsupply.com) Q I’ve been invited to a wedding – what should I wear? A By all means go traditional in a morning suit, but often men today don’t feel comfortable in a get-up that can look a touch Sunday-nightcostume-drama. A slick suit is a worthy alternative, but I always recommend avoiding black or dark grey as they tend to look corporate; light grey, navy or subtle hues show that it’s a real occasion. Also, play with touches to make it personal to you; a bold lining as seen at Richard James, and pocket squares and ties that elevate things; Drakes is a go-to here. This is also a chance to consider splashing out on a bespoke suit, so a classic style – single breasted blue for example.
Wool suit, £880 (richard-james. com) Q I’m getting married abroad, please tell me I don’t have to wear a heavy wool suit… A No, and you don’t really have to wear a tie either. Continental weddings call for relaxed rules, with lighter shades and some tricks to the construction of the fabric. A “half canvas” jacket means it doesn’t have a back panel, so the jacket is more free and lightweight. Also consider loafers; they’re breathable in summer but provide polish. Seersucker jacket, £355, and trousers, £175 (mrporter.com) Glynn penny loafers, £285 (paulsmith.com) Q How do I know what to look for when it comes to fit and cut? A There are some general rules around certain cuts and elements of a suit that will enhance your frame. Padded, broad and Neapolitan (gently puffed) will broaden shoulders, while longer beanpole frames benefit from a double breast to add bulk up top. For frames that are the opposite, pockets that slant inwards and down will create a slimmer waist. Lapels are important; peak lapels (where the edges point up and towards the shoulder) will give a stronger chest area to slim frames, while notch lapels (where the collar meets the lapel at a 75 to 90 degree angle) that sit low on the jacket (cutting half way down the jacket front) will create a long line that gives a streamlined effect. The “seat” of the blazer at back should just hit your rear end. Boglioni blazer, £397 (yoox.com) Q How do you do dress-down Friday? A Recently the track top has evolved from laddish attire to elevated knitwear, and looks dynamic and sleek with a proper coat or soft-structure blazer. Knitwear doesn’t have to be fusty; Uniqlo is king of the low-cost, high quality cashmere in top notch shades, so too Cos and Arket. Focus on chinos that fit perfectly; they should be straight legged, not tapered, and cut off above the ankle.
Cashmere crew neck, £79.90 (uniqlo.com)
Chinos, £69 (cosstores.com) Q If you wear a suit, do you have to wear a tie, pocket square, etc? A The full kit and caboodle is considered a bit dated today, but consider a knitted tie that’s a tad less formal. Try as I might, I can’t summon the energy to make sure a pocket square is perfectly neat; scrunch it up by all means.
Wool and silk pocket square, £55 (drakes.com) Q
Where can I get really great shoes that don’t cost a fortune? A
Serious shoe types – brogues, Derbys, Oxfords – can come with serious price tags. But in my experience, cheap shoes turn into torture devices. There is a middle ground though. Grenson’s start around £200, they are handcrafted and one of the most solid British shoe brands. Similarly, see Duke & Dexter and Paul Smith. Dylan shoes, £225 (grenson.com)