The Daily Telegraph

MAN FRIDAY WHY IT’S TIME TO RE-INVEST IN A PROPER SHIRT

The backbone of a man’s wardrobe is having its own moment, says

- Stephen Doig

You don’t need me to tell you that the humble shirt – that most essential, day-to-day backbone of a man’s working and off-duty wardrobe – is an essential. From school, it’s drummed into you that a shirt is your everyday mainstay; in most men’s working life, it’s mandatory. But the innate “uprightnes­s” of the shirt has meant it’s part of a more formal roster of clothes that have been on the wane in recent years.

These pages have noted before about the rising tide of casual attire in the last decade; athletic clothing in place of traditiona­l tailoring, suits that are crafted in technical fabrics, and a general move towards ease and, in the worst iterations, a style that is slouchy and unkempt. In such a landscape, the shirt has suffered.

But it seems like we’re due a rethink. The recent spate of men’s fashion shows Tiger of Sweden designer. creates traditiona­l striped shirts with rounded collars, some of them in shirting cotton but without buttons on the front.

Niche brands such as Lemaire offer Asianinspi­red collars that are minimal and sleek, and just as appropriat­e with a blazer. Similarly, in these colder months it’s also worth exploring how you wear a shirt – try slipping on a lightweigh­t polo shirt underneath, wearing the collar open for a touch of Sloaney statelines­s, or experiment­ing with the exotic-sounding “French tuck” – tucking the front in but leaving the back hanging – for a touch of Gallic loucheness. Sometimes it’s worth giving an old familiar some attention.

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 ??  ?? Louche look: the ‘French tuck’, as seen on the catwalk of Italian brand Pal Zileri
Louche look: the ‘French tuck’, as seen on the catwalk of Italian brand Pal Zileri
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