Roquefort fans demand true blue, rather than cheaper imitation

PROTECTORS of genuine Roquefort, France’s famed salty blue cheese, are calling for a ban on a cheaper, pasteurised lookalike product which is eating into already dwindling sales.

While family producers still exist, about 70 per cent of genuine Roquefort made according to “protected designation of origin” rules, is produced by Société des Caves, a brand owned by Lactalis, the world’s largest dairy firm.

Société recently launched a cheese called bleu de brebis (Ewes’ Blue) which uses pasteurised milk and is milder in taste. It sports the same brand name and the green packaging is very similar to the original. Union leaders claim the company is shooting itself in the foot by launching the new cheese, as it will push down sales of Roquefort that have already dropped 16 per cent in a decade to six million wheels.

Last month, they teamed up with “yellow vest” protesters to storm a supermarket in the southern town of Millau selling the new blue-veined rival, forcing the manager to remove it.

Société argues it is simply catering to changing tastes. “Roquefort no longer fits the requirements of some consumers who want a milder product,” director general Christian Gentil told Les Echos.

However, INAO, the French body that defines cheese-making rules, recently issued a warning that Société risked misleading consumers with “false or fallacious” marketing, given that it is “historically, legally and commercially” linked to Roquefort.

But with no ruling expected until next year, the plight of true Roquefort has been taken up by José Bové – a farmer and Green MEP famed for having trashed a Mcdonald’s to protest against “c--- food” and import rules.

Dismissing bleu de brebis as “Canada Dry” Roquefort, he announced his intention to take the fight to court. “For me, there is only one solution to this crisis – a ban and an end to production of this blue cheese,” he told Libération.