Dior wraps retro feminism in modern woolies
Paris Fashion Week opened yesterday with a bold Dior show delivering a strong message. Multi-coloured feminist phrases in LED lights illuminated the giant showspace. The starkest was the word “Consent” repeated four times – the day after the Harvey Weinstein verdict. It was timely.
Maria Grazia Chiuri, creative director of the French megabrand, often works with feminist artists. This time, it was two conceptual artists working under the pseudonym Claire Fontaine. The catwalk, inside a specially-built box in the Jardin des Tuileries, was papered with pages from Le Monde. It felt distinctly woke.
The clothes themselves were a pleasing contrast to the decor. They harked back to a former era of feminist protest. But, with inspirations such as Bianca Jagger in a highwayman’s cape at a 1972 pop festival, or Diane Keaton in a check suit in Play it Again Sam, this was never going to be gloomy Extinction Rebellion grunge.
Chiuri took the classic tight-waist Dior bar jacket and did a knitted version for the opening look. In fact, the first six looks were all knitted. The show was heaving with accessories – handbags, belts and delicate gold jewellery so desirable it was a surprise Carla Bruni, seated front row, didn’t snatch one off a passing model.
Chiuri ticked off a fair few of the trends showcased last week in Milan. There was cosy plaid fringing on blanket-check capes and elegant cocktail dresses in black and white with silk skirts made entirely of fringe from the waist down. There were even rubberised wellies as seen also at Prada and Versace. So at least, when sea levels do start to rise, fashionable feet will stay toasty and dry.