Yes we can! The secret to tinned cuisine
Stockpiling kitchen staples? Jack Monroe explains how to make all those canned foods go further – and taste much better
With self-isolation and coronavirus-induced stocking up of cupboards, making the most of tinned and frozen staple ingredients is becoming crucial to cooking again. I’m cautiously not advising that you stockpile dozens of each; panic buying begets panic buying, especially in the age of social media, and leaving nothing on the shelves for your neighbours isn’t exactly fair. But if you find yourself unable to shop for a period of time, here’s what to keep in case of an emergency. These ideas aren’t exactly haute cuisine – they were originally written for my book Tin Can Cook, aimed at food banks and potential Brexit hiccups in food supply chains – but they are surprisingly delicious, and will see you through difficult times without having to compromise on taste or nutrition.
Since the Covid-19 outbreak, I’ve been contacted by countless people who have started cooking with the humble and muchmaligned tin for the first time, or revisited forgotten classics, using my recipes as a baseline for preparing for potential self-isolation.
Mainly consisting of storecupboard staples, they are simultaneously balanced and nutritious. Although canning can cause a slight loss of some vitamins and other nutrients, notably vitamin
C in some fruits when heat-treated, a detailed study by the University of California found that “freezing and canning processes may preserve nutrient value. Frozen products lose fewer nutrients initially because of the short heating time in blanching”, while “exclusive recommendations of fresh produce ignore the nutrient benefits of canned and frozen products”.
Nutrients from pantry goods are more desirable than having none at all: here’s what to get, and how to make it work best.
Jars
Anchovies: A good source of protein, and one serving contains more than 20 per cent of an adult’s recommended daily intake of omega 3: add them to a can of tomatoes with olives and chilli for a very basic puttanesca sauce to toss over pasta.
Artichokes: Can be bought very cheaply. The ancient Greeks and Romans used them to treat digestive complaints, and they are low in saturated fat and cholesterol, and a source of magnesium, dietary fibre, and vitamins C, K and B9. Cockles: A seaside favourite, cockles also come in tins at most supermarkets. They are a good source of vitamin B12, iron, iodine, selenium, omega 3 and phosphorous. Toss through pasta with lemon and pepper, or a tomato chilli sauce, for a quick and proteinpacked meal, or make a simple batter and shallow fry them for cockle popcorn, which is an absolute delight. Lemons (preserved): High in vitamin C, which does not seem to be adversely affected by the preserving process, and you can eat the whole thing – skin and all – providing extra fibre. Add a tangy lift to spicy stews, tagines and curries, and pep up salads and warm bean dishes.
Tins
Baked beans: Look out for low-salt and low-sugar versions of these, which contain magnesium, phosphorous, potassium, zinc and copper. Beef (Aka stewed steak): A good source of protein – even from a can. It’s rich in vitamin B12, zinc, selenium, iron, vitamin B3 and vitamin B6. I use it to make a slow-cooked steak and lentil ragu, a beef and ale pie filling, or simply in a very delicious bourguignon.
Carrots: Known for being a source of vitamin A (beta-carotene), carrots are also a good source of vitamin K. Coconut milk: It contains a mixture of saturated and non-saturated fats and is a good source of potassium. Use it in curries, as a base for soups, or for baking in luxurious breads.
Mandarins and peaches: These are high in vitamin C, beta-carotene, and dietary fibre. Mix with oats and yogurt for a breakfast bircher, or toss into a salad, use as the sweet base for a spicy curry, or simply enjoy as a snack. Potatoes: Canned potatoes are a source of vitamins B6, C and fibre. They also contain some copper, potassium, manganese, phosphorous, vitamin B3 and pantothenic acid. Ideal in a stew, soup, to pad out a curry, or to make a passable saag aloo or Bombay potato with. Or toss in mayonnaise, capers, and pepper for an instant potato salad. Tomatoes: Virtually fat and cholesterol free and a source of vitamin C. They also contain the antioxidants beta-carotene and lycopene that
become more absorbable with cooking. Use a couple of cans of tomatoes to make a basic pasta sauce with herbs, garlic, a dash of oil and vinegar and a pinch of salt and chilli. Tuna: An excellent source of selenium; vitamins B3, B12 and B2, and protein. Serve warm over poached eggs and fried potato slices for a hot twist on a niçoise; fold through pasta with a cheesy sauce for a childlike treat, or simply mix with mayo, lemon and pepper and enjoy.