The Daily Telegraph

YOU WEAR IT WOOL

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Knitwear is something British brands, both large and niche, do well. Meet some of our favourites who are producing to high ethical and environmen­tal standards

1. & Daughter

Everything about this small UK label is admirable, from the subtle old Céline-esque sensibilit­y of the cuts and necklines, to the fact that the yarns are all sustainabl­y sourced. Their tag-line is “In Praise of Slowness” and they’re signed up to the Woolmark Best Practice initiative so you can rest assured that none of their wool has been mulesed and that their cashmere is produced under the Sustainabl­e Fibre Alliance.

“There’s still a lot more the industry can do to improve welfare and sustainabi­lity but we’re gone as far as we can right now,” says founder Buffy Reid.

She’s also the daughter in the name. Her Irish father had a knitwear factory and produced for big names such as Burberry, Nordstrom and Bergdorf Goodman, but with the arrival of cheap Chinese cashmere, decided to rethink. The result was a niche venture with his daughter.

“That slow, thoughtful approach has its pluses and minuses,” says Reid. “When we have a sell-out, it can take us two months to restock.”

This is not massproduc­ed, pile-it-high merch, although the prices are extraordin­arily good value (£195-£435), thanks to a decision to sell mainly from their own website, which means they don’t have to mark up six or seven times like some other brands.

“One of the driving factors in starting the label was to fill that gap between Celine’s gorgeous £1,000 jumpers and the humdrum offer on the high street,” says Reid. As you’d expect from someone steeped in the fashion industry (she used to work in the PR department at Gap, when it was every fashion editor’s high street source of pared-back well made classics), &Daughter has plenty of subtle details that make it much more than a basic – delicate colours (check out the pale lilac cashmere crew neck) and funnel necks.

“People love the idea of framing their faces with cashmere and tucking their hair in, V-necks are still a bit marginal.”

To keep prices reasonable – and pieces hard-wearing – some cashmeres are mixed with lamb’s wool, but make no mistake, this is still luxury. The merino is from Loro Piana, super light and super warm. The grey or navy ribbed cardigans (very Prada) could be your most useful buys this season. As for the patch-pocket, hornbutton­ed boyfriend cardi, “you wear it like a jacket, over a slip dress. That look is huge and it’s not going away”. And-daughter.com

2. Madeleine Thompson

Luxurious yarns with high fashion commitment. Think Kate Moss – and you. Thompson has a knack for making statements that are accessible and cosy. Jumpers from £298, Madeleinet­hompson.com

3. Navygrey

Frustrated that she couldn’t find affordable knitwear like the classics in her mother’s wardrobe, Rachel Carvellspe­dding launched this label just over a year ago, with a handful of jumper styles and colours in lamb’s wool and a commitment to best practice (even the labels used environmen­tally friendly ink). She’s now added boyfriend cardigans. Hard wearing and chic. From £145, navygrey.co

4. Alex Gore Brown

Alex Gore Brown describes her collection­s as womenswear rather than knitwear. The distinctio­n points to the structured silhouette­s of some of her pieces, which she makes on industrial knitting machines. She’s also consulted for Nina Ricci and Mcqueen’s knitwear lines and does a line in nifty accessorie­s: collars, rosettes, ruffles. All knitted, of course. Accessorie­s from £40, jumpers from £195, Alexgorebr­own.com

5. Toast

Toast makes a point of sourcing British yarns and reviving traditiona­l techniques. The knits are sturdy, stylish and come in a range of subtle, earthy shades. Jumpers from £115, Toa.st

For more, go to telegraph. co.uk/fashion

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