Shelling broad beans can be a faff, but during locked-down days Eleanor Steafel is finding it therapeutic

It is becoming increasingly hard to tell the difference between day and evening, weekday and weekend. As one friend lamented: “The trouble with lockdown is, the only way to mark the transition between day and night is to have a glass of wine.”

I’ve tried other techniques. Saving your governmentsanctioned hour of exercise until the end of the working day. Changing from daytime loungewear to night-time loungewear. But a proper sundowner (preferably taken outside) really is the best approach – and it is a bank holiday Friday, after all.

I’m going to fill the coming days with various elaborate cooking projects – gnudi, hot cross buns and barbecued pizza are all on the cards – but, for now, a gentle ease into the weekend is called for, with a quiet, therapeutic cook’s task to accompany my sundowner, and minimal cooking.

Shelling broad beans is a job you’d rarely bother to do in normal circumstances. They’re best eaten relatively unadorned, so you can really appreciate their sweet spring freshness.

Clean flavours such as fresh herbs and lemon work well, as do milder cheeses such as feta, ricotta or mozzarella. I made them into a light stew with the help of a leek cooked until soft and sweet, some pancetta and plenty of rosé. We heaped spoonfuls on to good bread and ate it with a green salad.

You could use frozen beans, and peas would also be good. And if you’ve managed to get a leg of lamb for Sunday, make extra tonight, as this dish will sit brilliantly among the goodies on your Easter table.