Zoom, prosecco and virtual measurements: the new wedding dress shopping
When I’d imagined what searching for a wedding dress might be like, I can’t say it had ever crossed my mind that, on my first appointment, I’d be wearing my slippers and the designer would be warning that her four-year-old son, dressed as a dinosaur, might roar into the room at any moment. But such is the new reality of the search for the perfect look.
Weddings may have been suspended since March, but the bridal style industry is still in full swing, confirms Kate Halfpenny, renowned for her modern spin on bridalwear, who is preparing to reopen her Bloomsbury boutique in the coming weeks, ready to welcome 200 brides who are awaiting fittings. In the meantime, she’s been using Zoom to consult with new clients.
I got engaged in February and, as a fashion editor, my thoughts naturally turned to what The Dress might look like, well, years before that. Yes, I’ve had a little secret stash of inspiration pictures on my phone for a while but just as I had an excuse to start making my ideas a reality (as well as making a commitment to the man I love, obviously) lockdown hit. All vague thoughts of plans have been on hold since then, so it was oddly – if, on reflection, unsurprisingly – emotional to finally speak with Halfpenny this week and cautiously float some ideas.
There is no official word yet on when weddings might be allowed to resume but there is some hope that early July – when churches, pubs and restaurants are slated to reopen – might be a logical time. In Northern Ireland, outdoor ceremonies with fewer than 10 guests are back from Monday. Of course, there will be no gatherings of dozens of people, but the simple yet monumental possibility of saying “I do” is a ray of light on the horizon.
Just look at how news that front-line NHS workers Jann Tipping and Annalan Navaratnam had been able to marry in the chapel at St Thomas’ Hospital in April filled the nation with as much joy as a royal wedding, or how American author and editor Elaine Welteroth’s marriage to Jonathan Singletary on the steps of their home in Brooklyn, New York, went viral.
“In conversation with brides, many have commented that finding their dream dress is an even more significant experience than ever. A symbol of getting through the tough times and looking ahead to new beginnings,” says Rebecca Goodwin of The Dress Tribe, a service matching women to bridal designers. “Brides have been turning to support groups to discuss their postponed wedding plans, with many commenting that they will be willing to spend even more on their dresses thanks to an increase in saving capabilities during this time.”
“I think everyone is going to want one hell of a party when this is over,” confirms Halfpenny. The extra time the lockdown delays have given her clients means that many have decided to make their looks more extravagant than they had first planned. “We’ve had brides say, ‘sod it, I’m adding a veil’, they just want to go all out.”
Even with nothing yet set in stone, during my chat with Halfpenny I go from thinking that I’d like something simple and sleek to contemplating just how many bows could possibly adorn one dress, or debating the merits of adding one of her Manet tulle capes – a striking alternative to a veil – to the look. “I’m finally getting excited again,” I message my mum afterwards.
The next morning, I have a virtual chat with Phillipa Lepley, bridal couturier to the high society set, who is in her Kensington boutique unpacking PPE supplies. It may not be the usual garb you’d see in her pristine oasis of sumptuous bridal luxury, but it will be essential when she reopens on June 15.
The personalised service offered by bridal designers works well for social distancing, even if Lepley has had to think about crucial but unexpected details, like how seamstresses won’t be able to pass pins to one another or how brides may arrive to fittings a little sweaty having come by bike (she’s providing bike racks to encourage this).
Both Lepley and Halfpenny plan to replicate the experience of bringing friends and family for fittings by setting up ipads so they can be present – prosecco in hand – via Zoom.
During lockdown, Lepley has been busy continuing to deliver consultations virtually. She was au fait with this way of working already, thanks to her international client base. “Our brides love these calls. I’m there sketching away, grabbing samples and dresses to show them,” she explains, scuttling across the shop to bring an example of the impeccable lace available on her timelessly exquisite designs up to the camera lens – it’s as good as seeing it in reality.
Her virtual model is now so well honed that even measurements can be taken over a video call; a tape measure and instruction sheet is sent and then the bride dials in while one of Lepley’s team observes and guides to ensure the figures are precise. Examples of bespoke embroidery options and fabrics have also been sent, so a huge amount of the process can happen remotely; several American brides have placed orders during the pandemic without having seen a dress. In the coming days, she begins her bi-annual sample sale, which will be hosted virtually with prices starting at £2,500 (see Phillipalepley.com for details).
If, for many brides, Covid-19 has evoked yearnings for the most elevated wedding look possible, others might feel the opposite – wanting something more informal for a scaled-back ceremony or budget. On the high street, Whistles, H&M, Reformation and Ghost have more affordable wedding lines or there’s the vintage option; Retold Vintage has launched a service to find the perfect designs for those with minimalist tastes. Oxfam, Etsy and Heavenly Vintage Brides are other good places to look.
Pre-pandemic, Matchesfashion.com had identified how weddings were evolving, sometimes becoming multi-occasion extravaganzas or otherwise being understated celebrations, and created an edit to suit – Molly Goddard’s smocked tulle dress with velvet ties is high on my wishlist.
“Whilst things have changed in the sense that attending big events isn’t possible, people are able to have small register office ceremonies and make future wedding party plans, so a special outfit is still important,” notes Natalie Kingham, fashion and buying director. “We have seen a 23 per cent lift in the past three weeks in our wedding edit category (vs the previous three weeks.) The most popular areas are occasion dresses which are +45 per cent year on year, tailored jackets (+150 per cent), high heels (+170 per cent) and evening tops (+170 per cent). The key factor to consider is to invest in something timeless that you can wear again, whether a beautiful tailored coat from Christopher Kane or a broderieanglaise cotton dress from Batsheva.”
For American label Love Shack Fancy, an upscale take on Laura Ashley bohemia, the launch of its wedding line could not have come at a more appropriate time. “What’s ideal about launching the collection right now is I always saw my bride being a more laid-back, free-spirited, unfussy girl having a relaxed wedding in her back garden or on the beach, so with most weddings now being cancelled, the back garden really is the only option and our dresses suit that,” says the brand’s founder Rebecca Hessel Cohen.
Her collection comprises romantic, floaty lace creations with a nod to Victorian and Edwardian silhouettes. “Our dresses are perfect for last-minute weddings or low-key affairs. And you can wear it again as it doesn’t feel traditional or you can easily dye it.” There is certainly huge appeal in the idea of keeping things simple in the Austen-esque “Viviana” dress.
What’s evident from speaking to purveyors of bridalwear of all styles is their uplifting determination to be a source of joy and hope. In fact, I think the fact that Halfpenny was fitting my consultation in around home schooling – and my inability to get Zoom working for the first few minutes – make the start of the wedding dress hunt all the more memorable.