The Daily Telegraph

This knee-jerk reaction over a burger is unpalatabl­e

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I’m not a huge fan of Mcdonald’s, as attested by the fact I was once overheard on a bus saying to one of my children: “No, darling, you can’t have a Happy Meal tonight, you had one last year.” But given the ridiculous “cultural appropriat­ion” furore surroundin­g Mickey D’s new KneeJerk Chicken Sandwich, I might just drop in and buy one. Yum.

Mcdonald’s, which should take comfort in the words of Oscar “the only thing worse than being talked about is not being talked about” Wilde, has allegedly committed a crime against wokeness by serving up said spicy chicken, which originated in Jamaica. Cue outrage.

Some social media users have pointed out Mcdonald’s has no right to sell jerk chicken because it does not have a branch on the Caribbean island. I’m not sure why that matters, but then I’m not entirely sure why any of this matters, to be honest.

Others are upset that labelling jerk chicken as jerk chicken constitute­s cultural appropriat­ion. Let’s not forget Jamie Oliver came a-cropper in 2018 for his “punchy jerk rice” product.

This may have something to do with the fact that this form of flavouring, based on allspice and Scotch bonnet peppers, was adopted and adapted by African slaves who had been taken to the West Indies in the 17th century.

Or it might just be a trigger for angry keyboard warriors with nothing more constructi­ve to do in the campaign against global racism.

I have no clue why mealtimes have become so incendiary, in a country where chicken tikka masala is a beloved national dish alongside Sunday roasts. Where I live, in east London, the local delicacy is a warm jerk chicken bagel. I’m not sure which of the cultures is appropriat­ing the other, but it’s almost unseemly in its melty, mouth-watering deliciousn­ess.

Eating is one of life’s greatest pleasures and sharing recipes the very essence of soft diplomacy. Food is the ingredient that binds humanity together. Only a jerk would want to weaponise it.

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