THE A RT OF F RI DAY NI GHT DI NNER

Now is not too early – in this of all years – for an indulgent centrepiece

Iam normally a total stickler about avoiding anything festive before December. I wouldn’t dream of eating stollen in November and it needs to be approaching Christmas week before I’ll watch a festive film. I hate the thought of the magic wearing off too early, so I keep it at arm’s length for as long as possible.

But like everything this year, Christmas feels different. The camp, cosy, over-thetop, emotional wallop of it all feels more vital than ever. Secretly, I have been inhaling Christmas for a good fortnight now. An early mince pie was the gateway drug. Before I knew it I was listening to Carols from King’s in the kitchen and ordering decorations for the tree. I’m going for a food theme this year – sparkly ornamental gherkin, anyone?

On Saturday I put a box of After Eights in the freezer (recommend), lit a scented candle, poured a whisky and watched The Holiday. I don’t even know myself any more.

Have Yourself a Merry Little Christmas came on the radio yesterday and let me be the first to tell you that song has taken on a whole new meaning in 2020: “… we all will be together, if the fates allow.” It’s on the nose.

I’m dealing with it all by going hard on indulgence, starting with this rustic dauphinoise potato galette – layers of thinly sliced potato, oozing cream, which fills your kitchen with the scent of garlic, thyme and nutmeg.

This would make a great centrepiece for a celebratory meal, perhaps alongside a hot ham, with spiced red cabbage. You could also have it at room temperature with a mustardy winter salad for a fantastic supper or weekend lunch.