A ray of sunshine
The world of watchmaking is once again turning to the decades-old technology of the solar-powered timepiece. By Alan Seymour
Following on from the mid-century solar-powered clocks of Patek Philippe and Seiko (then Seikosha), 1972 saw the emergence of the first solar-powered wristwatch in the form of Synchronar’s 2100. Using solar cells (basically miniaturised solar panels) to absorb and convert light energy into an electrical current that is then stored in a rechargeable battery, the basic principles of the solar watch have remained essentially unchanged since its debut.
The electronics-obsessed consumer culture of the 1970s and 1980s saw the solar watch inundate the world of horology. Until – notwithstanding the notable exceptions produced by the likes of Casio and Citizen – the trend settled down and fell in line with the watch industry’s rank and file during the 1990s. But, with a general rise of interest in sustainable energy and, arguably, a little influence from the sometimes soulless connected timepiece, the solar watch is edging its way back into the limelight.
This year saw Cartier introduce a solar iteration of its classic Tank in the form of the Solarbeat. A part of the rebooted and youthful Tank Must collection, the Solarbeat seamlessly blends the historic Tank design with modern photovoltaic know-how. Tiny apertures have been concealed in the Roman hour markers, allowing light to pass through to the cell found lurking beneath the dial. Two years in the making, Solarbeat stands testament to Cartier’s commitment to the environment with a 16-year life cycle that drastically reduces battery waste compared to conventional quartz models. The strap, too, made of approximately 40 per cent plant matter, represents a sixfold carbon footprint reduction to that of standard calfskin.
With a slightly more conservative aesthetic, the Junghans Max Bill MEGA Solar combines solar power with the classic Bauhaus design of the brand’s six-decade strong Max Bill range. The watch features a host of functions, including radio-controlled timekeeping (a system Junghans pioneered in the late 1980s), automatic calendar updates, and global time-zone synchronisation by means of the MEGA smartphone app. A winner at the 2021 Red Dot Design Awards, the MEGA Solar is housed in a lightweight titanium case and equipped with a titanium mesh bracelet.
If it’s a host of functions you’re after then the Tissot T-touch Connect Solar could be perfect. Clearly aimed at the more adventurous wearer, the watch features a compass, altimeter, barometer, chronograph, alarm and navigation complications, replete with a touch-screen face, all housed within the Connect Solar’s generous 47mm case.
Japanese brands Casio and Citizen have been consistently producing solar-driven watches. Many of Casio’s evergreen G-shock watches, including the Full Metal GMWB5000TR with Tran Tixxii titanium construction, use the in-house Tough Solar system. Citizen, the first firm to manufacture a solar-powered analogue display wristwatch in 1976, uses its contemporary Ecodrive system to power timepieces such as the Promaster Diver Super Titanium, which has a six-month full-charge run time.
Fellow Japanese watchmaker Seiko has also maintained solar-powered watch production in earnest, with one fan favourite being the Prospex Arnie. Named in honour of Arnold Schwarzenegger, the current Arnie is a reissue of an analogue-and-digital-display diver’s watch worn by Schwarzenegger’s character in 1985’s Commando and features a black ‘Tuna Can’ outer case, asymmetric pusher/crown layout and accordion-style expanding silicone dive strap.
Setting itself apart from the others, Ressence – the independent brand launched in 2010 – has integrated solar power in a decidedly atypical manner. The brand’s Type 2 is a traditional self-winding mechanical watch, but with a solar-powered ‘ecrown’ system that automates the time-setting and adjustment process. The patented system detects when the watch is not being worn and stops the movement to conserve (mechanical) power. Upon reactivation by a double tap to the crystal, the system restarts the Type 2’s mechanism and automatically calculates and resets the display to the correct time. The ecrown can also be programmed with a second time-zone by means of an app.