A WELL-MADE COAT WILL SERVE YOU FOR LIFE – JUST ASK PRINCE CHARLES
Invest in something substantial and you’ll never need another, says Stephen Doig
In a world of flux, change and Covid threats, there’s a reassurance that – come what may – the grand unveiling of the Big Coat will always come around. There’s a comforting sense of ceremony to it; relegating the flighty cover-ups of autumn in favour of something with heft and substance. Perhaps it’s the dour Scotsman in me, but I’m never happier than when putting on a proper overcoat.
Of course, the exact type entirely depends on your situation, but as we gradually return to social and work situations, something smart but solid is the wisest tack. Outdoorsy variants are well and good for freezing treks in Nordic tundras, but are somewhat bulky (not to mention getting you hot and bothered) on the Northern Line.
Luckily, when it comes to informed winter dressing, us Brits tend to do it best. A host of brands have made it their mainstay; the likes of Boden, Jigsaw, Mackintosh and John Lewis all excel in the realm of good winter coats. It’s worth taking a tip from one of the most stylish men of all time, Prince Charles, in his selection of certain classic patterns, such as herringbone, houndstooth and check – he’s been wearing the same handsome Anderson & Sheppard taupe herringbone coat for almost four decades.
With provenance more important than ever, these classic designs showcase the best of what our British mills (an industry in dire need of support) can do. HRH has been a long-time champion of the “buy less and better” ethos, and that’s never more apparent than his trusty winter coat. It’s an item worth splashing a bit of money on, because properly cared for it should last just as long as the Prince of Wales’s. It’s also worth considering a coat with versatility. We’re long past the genteel time when a man divided his wardrobe between town and country, so something that straddles the working week and weekend pottering, be it country yomps or park walks, is advisable. Black, grey and navy are traditionally “city-centric”, but might seem a bit severe when you’re off duty, so something in an autumnal colourway would work best. Consider also some breathing space in the cut to allow for a chunky jumper or a suit; there’s nothing worse than peeling off your coat to find a crumpled jacket underneath.
Take note of single vs double-breasted, too. Double-breasted is generally regarded as more formal, and certainly looks statesmanlike, but err on the side of caution. Frames with more, shall we say, timbre, can look bulkier with the extra fabric and buttons down the torso, so longer, leaner frames suit double-breasted best. Single-breasted coats, with the clean lapel line, help slim down larger frames because the “V”-shape creates a narrowing effect towards the waist. Suitably armoured, you’ll be ready for whatever glacial winds – real or metaphorical – that this winter has in store.