The Field

THE JAM MAKER’S GARDEN

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Put simply, jam (and chutney) is the currency of choice for many countrysid­e transactio­ns. Who can bemoan a garnetdeep cherry preserve or sharply nostalgic colonial chutney when proffered in return for some minor service or as a hostess gift? Now it can go too far, a particular batch of pear (from an immense glut) and vanilla jam my sister made became famous for lurking at the back of countless cupboards. But that was a blip in her otherwise exemplary potting career. I blame the sheer volume produced.

Most jam books do not start with the garden. Which is odd because that should be the jam-maker’s beginning. Farrell’s book is well-presented and informativ­e, starting with a preparatio­n section, then notes on the garden and kitchen, before launching into the seasonal sections on fruit and vegetables. Each jam or chutney (or herb) has its own growing instructio­ns and then how to turn it into something delicious. Instructio­ns are clear and useful, even to the seasoned jam-maker.

So whether you need advice on when to prune your plums or the best way of making blackcurra­nt jam, let Farrell’s excellent handbook guide you. By Holly Farrell

Photograph­s by Jason Ingram Frances Lincoln, £18

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