The Field

Darts Farm

The evolution of a foodie paradise.

- By Charlotte Mackaness

IF THE ROADSIDE farm shed in Devon’s Clyst Valley in which Ronald Dart started his pick-your-own business in 1971 was a small acorn, Darts Farm Shop is the mighty oak that grew from it. While still a family business, run by Dart’s three sons, it has developed into not just a nationally recognised farm shop but a one-stop lifestyle Mecca. There is a food hall brimming with home-grown and local, artisan produce; an in-house chocolatie­r and gelateria; a vineyard; a small-batch cidery; restaurant­s; and the sort of perilously tempting shopping experience that can see one popping in for a birthday card and coming away with a new kitchen. There’s even a spa and an award-winning hair salon.

This transforma­tion probably wouldn’t have surprised Dart, who died in 1982: he was a visionary who, even 50 years ago, understood the relevance of community and food miles. “Long before it became fashionabl­e, our father believed in selling produce directly to the consumer, and that we should eat what is in season and produced as locally as possible. His values and vision remain at the heart of what we do,” says Michael Dart, one of the three brothers.

For all it has evolved Darts Farm remains a busy working farm, overseen by eldest son Paul. It grows more than 70 varieties of fruit and vegetables, including beans, beetroot and even melons, just yards from the farm shop and picked fresh each morning. Traditiona­l farming methods and centuries-old rotational practices reign supreme, helping to create a dynamic ecosystem and fertile soil. Central to this is the herd of Devon Red Ruby cattle, whose dung fertilises the fields.

The Red Rubies epitomise Darts Farm’s approach to food. They are allowed time to reach maturity naturally, which results in delicious, marbled beef that is hung in whole carcass form, dry-aged and butchered with supreme care to use every part of the animal. What isn’t grown, raised or made at the farm comes from local farmers and artisan producers, be that Poll Dorset lamb from across the River Exe or fruit and vegetables grown by Chris Eaton, who for 40 years has headed to Darts Farm after hand-picking his asparagus, gooseberri­es and redcurrant­s.

Seasonal, local food is also showcased in the three restaurant­s and fishmonger-cum-fish-and-chip shop. With the food hall’s rich larder to plunder, you can find everything from hearty breakfasts and ploughman’s through to slow-churned artisan gelato flavoured with Exe coffee and honey from Darts Farm’s own hives.

There’s an abundance of reasons one might make the trip to Darts Farm, be that the Pebblebed Vineyards (one of the few ‘single estate’ wine producers in Britain), Cow & Cacao (where chocolate is crafted bean to bar) or the masterclas­ses held at the Artisan School. With its children’s play area, animal corner, fishing ponds, bike hire and wetland walk, it is also simply a lovely place to enjoy the Devon countrysid­e and burn off that home-made ice cream or ‘farmer’s’ breakfast.

Special delivery

Darts Farm launched a website and delivery service in the space of a week after the COVID-19 lockdown was announced. This offering has been expanded with both click-and-collect and nationwide delivery on a wide range of produce from meat and wine to chocolate, gifts and hampers.

Must-try beef

The Red Rubies are very much the jewel in this delicious crown, with everything from prime ribs and handmade beef Wellington to fillet steak and offal.

What’s making a buzz?

Dart Farm’s beekeeper, Philip, collects pure Devon honey straight from hives on the farm but always leaves enough to help support and sustain the bees that are so important to the Clyst Valley.

Make a date

There’s a full programme of events and masterclas­ses from vineyard tours and pick-your-own sunflowers to local crafts. Book now to learn how to make a bird feeder from willow (3 May, 10am-12pm or 12.30pm-2.30pm).

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 ?? ?? Darts Farm Shop in Devon is not only a haven for food lovers – it is a one-stop lifestyle Mecca
Darts Farm Shop in Devon is not only a haven for food lovers – it is a one-stop lifestyle Mecca
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