The Great Outdoors (UK)

Melmerby Fell North Pennines ENGLAND

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and elegant willow warblers miraculous­ly back from Africa.

After crossing the A686 you can wander at will over the open access land, but there is a recommende­d route posted to help adventurer­s through the cross walls, and we followed that. We climbed the upper slopes of Fiend’s Fell, while being harried by concerned curlews; both wind and sun strengthen­ed, disturbing the sombre shroud, which cleared to deliver a magnificen­t panorama of distant Lakeland tops, with Blencathra, Helvellyn and Fairfield easily identifiab­le.

From Fiend’s Fell the ridge top is broad and grassy, with few distinctiv­e features, save for a few areas where underlying gritstone is exposed, scarring the tops. Grouse were rearing their young in swathes of short heather, and our approach sent them panicking into cover.

The wind continued to build, with a notable chill, so we kept up the pace, climbing beneath ascending skylark refrains.

It’s worth detouring to Melmerby High Scar, which collapses over grey gritstone to reveal ridges rolling into the vale, dark green set against bright emerald. We reached the large cairn at Dun Edge, the summit of Melmerby

Fell, which offered up profiles of Cross Fell further along the ridge, and more distant Howgills and Wild Boar Fell. Time for coffee and cake.

Rested and refuelled, we dropped to the bridleway that follows the Maiden Way along the course of an old Roman road. The ridges that undulate down from Melmerby Fell are an alluring temptation, and it is possible to divert from the bridleway, following the track through Windy Gap, passing Sharp Shears, and following Spoutgill Sike past Fellside Farm to the public footpath.

Every gate is unlocked, but as the final section lies outside the access area, strictly speaking you risk being turned back; yet it’s difficult to imagine that this lovely ridge is never visited by walkers.

I’m sure considerat­e walkers are accepted, and the gates left unlocked for this reason. The informatio­n panel gives the alternativ­e right of way, which remains fabulous if you don’t know what you’re missing.

Both routes took us back along paths that weave between fertile meadows of sylvan foothills, flooded with the chatter of lowland birds.

Lakeland fells from Knapside Hill; Looking over Cuns Fell to Blencathra; Knock Pike, Dufton Pike and Murton Pike from Windy Gap

Further informatio­n

Maps: OS 1:25,000 Explorer sheet OL31 (North Pennines, Teesdale & Weardale)

Transport: Not enough buses to be practical

Informatio­n: Penrith TIC (01768 867466),

1

Start/Finish

Off-road parking at the end of the lane beyond Swineside

GR: NY327326

From the north side of the bridge

over Grainsgill Beck head N up

pathless terrain beside Poddy Gill.

From the top of the ghyll head NE

to Iron Crags and continue to the

top of Carrock Fell.

Follow the broad ridge W by

Round Knott and Miton Hill

to a col at Red Gate.

3

Continue just N of W to

where the track coming

down off High Pike is reached.

Turn north, and leave the main

track to climb over grass to the

summit of High Pike.

Return S to the main track

and follow it SW over Hare

Stones to the Lingy Hut bothy.

From the bothy continue SW

on the Cumbria Way, into

the head of Grainsgill Beck, then

SW up onto the east ridge of

Knott. Turn W and follow the ridge

to the summit of Knott.

Walk SW down to the col

at 548m, then uphill in the

same direction to the flat area on

the north ridge of Calva. Due S

will lead you to the summit ridge

and the boundary. Follow it SE to

the summit of Great Calva.

A fenceline runs E down

from the summit. Follow

this to cross Wiley Gill at a bridge.

Pick up the Cumbria Way

going NE and follow it back

to the start.

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 ??  ?? Cribyn & N escarpment from Pen y Fan
[Captions clockwise from top]
Cribyn & N escarpment from Pen y Fan [Captions clockwise from top]
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