TGO Challenge
On their first post-lockdown backpacking trip, TGO Challenge coordinators Sue Oxley and Ali Ogden are inspired by the sight of new people coming into wild camping and backpacking.
“WE’RE JUST ENJOYING BEING HERE,” said the young man sitting in front of the Shelter Stone gazing down on Loch A’an as it glittered invitingly in the sunshine, their tent pitched on one of its beautiful beaches.
This was the first weekend when wild camping was sanctioned again in Scotland and this trip, a convoluted route taking in highlights of the Cairngorms and some less-frequented corners, had been planned during months of frustration – but that no longer mattered. We had to agree: being out with a tent on our backs was enough.
We heard the same sentiment time and again as we moved to another sparkling lochan. Happy faces beamed at us but there was also a sense of calm contemplation. People weren’t elated – more relieved and thankful, feeling this should be savoured, not rushed. Whilst a few zoomed by in search of summits, most were lingering, appreciating their freedom as much as the views.
Unusually, most people were carrying big packs; and it was good to see a lot of young faces amongst the usual weather-worn ones. One commented that he nearly turned back, seeing the Linn of Dee car park fill at 8am; but, as he pointed out, the Cairngorms are so vast they can easily wallow all those people.
However Loch Etchachan was the destination for most so, with an urge for a bit of solitude, we succumbed to Ben Macdui’s invitation and dropped down its south flank into a beautiful, nameless and pathless glen.
The idyll didn’t last. The blustery wind became strong overnight and un-forecast rain battered the tent come morning. The young man’s words now seemed wise: being out was enough. Beinn A’an and the Water of Caiplich gorges would wait for another time, but neither were we ready to head home quite yet. Glens Geldie and Feshie called us – we could walk home over two days.
After a thankfully more restful second camp we set off on what we thought was familiar territory. We have walked the right of way numerous times on the TGO Challenge, but always west to east. Going ‘backwards’ was a revelation. The watershed section we think of as a necessary boggy slog on the way to a hot
The outdoors is big enough for everyone to enjoy
shower in Braemar instead gave tantalising, previously unseen views into beautiful Glen Feshie, spurring us on along an 18 mile walk to a now wanted bed.
Back home and the phone pinged with notifications. There had been issues around Loch Morlich and other accessible honeypots with campfires and litter. There was rising indignation that these “dirty campers” might cause a backlash again “real wild campers”. Our mind went back to the young and probably inexperienced people we had met and been inspired by. We feared a “them and us” attitude was beginning to emerge, when we should all be “us”.
Undoubtedly, some caused destruction and littering; but we suspect even in these popular spots the majority would be respectful of their surroundings. Had the nearby campsite been open we suspect most would have used its facilities instead.
We were all novices once, making inevitable mistakes from which we learn. It strikes us that wild camping has gradually become a middle-aged, predominantly male, pastime. Those younger people (amongst them female and non-white faces) who are new to backpacking need encouraging, not condemning by presumed association with the irresponsible few.
If your first experience of camping is on a crowded beach by Loch Morlich, shouldn’t you be encouraged to learn relevant skills and explore more remote places next time rather than it be implied you should stay at home, leaving the hills to those who used them pre-lockdown? Maybe your next trip could be to beautiful Loch A’an or Loch Etchachan, and that might inspire confidence to find solitude away from popular paths – and even lead to a future TGO Challenge!
Increased wild camping will of course bring problems, but it is up to us as a community to find solutions. We worried about potential human waste issues at Loch Etchachan if the volume of wild campers were to be sustained, but if those with more experience pitch somewhere less frequented that would spread the load.
On our first post-lockdown backpacking trip we were inspired by people younger and less experienced than us. This moment could be a chance to not only help and encourage a new generation in the hills, but to learn from them too. Let’s not waste that opportunity.