The Herald

Determined dad works his way up from kitchen porter to head baker at top city spot

- Ginny Sanderson

A HARDWORKIN­G dad who had never baked or cooked until just five years ago has been appointed head baker at a luxury Glasgow eatery.

After rising through the ranks of the Nico Simeone hospitalit­y empire, Mafu Diagne has been promoted to the role at Valaria in Glasgow’s West End.

The 27-year-old, who is originally from Senegal, said: “I didn’t know anything about baking when I came to Scotland, but I’ve fallen in love with it.

“The more you learn, the better you become and the more enjoyable it becomes.”

When Mafu arrived in Glasgow, he could also not speak a word of English. He said: “I couldn’t even say ‘hello’.

“Learning English from Scots in kitchens probably isn’t the easiest way to pick it up, but I’m making progress.”

The aspiring baker was helped by his cousin Modou Diagne, who rose from kitchen porter to head chef of 111 by Nico and is now chef patron of the Kelvinside restaurant.

“Modou’s like a brother to me,” said Mafu, “He convinced me to come to Scotland and I’m so glad he did.

“It’s been a journey. He’s taught me so much; from his work ethic and creativity to specific techniques. He’s always giving me advice and pushing me to improve.

“Right from when I arrived, Modou only spoke English to me. That was hard at first, but it’s definitely helped me learn.”

The pair live together near 111 by Modou as it is now named but have very different shift patterns.

Mafu said: “We don’t see much of each other anymore as we’re like ships in the night; I arrive at work around 3am, and he’s not back till after midnight.

“We can go a week without seeing each other, despite living in the same house.”

Like Modou, Mafu started out as a kitchen porter at a Nico Simeone venue, the Hebridean (now The Loveable Rogue).

He then moved to 111 by Modou where he developed a love of cookery. And during the last year, Mafu has developed a passion for pastries, fuelled by Youtube videos of acclaimed French pastry chef Cédric Grolet.

He said: “Nico told me to watch Cedric for inspiratio­n and it’s become an obsession. I can spend hours watching him on Youtube. The end result can be so beautiful, it’s always worth the effort.”

So when it was time to open Valaria in Byres Road, Mr Simeone said the time was right for Mafu to step up to a senior role.

Mafu said: “It’s hard work, especially starting at 3am, as everything’s freshly made each day, but I love it.”

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