The Herald - The Herald Magazine
Sandyhills to Rockcliffe
Location: Dumfries and Galloway Map: OS Landranger 84 Distance: 5 miles (8km) Time: 3-4 hours Terrain: Coastal paths, steep in places THE driver of the bus taking us back to Sandyhills from Rockcliffe seemed impressed that we had walked there. “I’ve done that,” he said. “A tough wee walk.”
He is right. A five-mile coast path may look a breeze on the map but in common with much of the UK coastline this section is rarely flat and features a couple of pretty stiff climbs, first out of Sandyhills on to the Torrs then again as you leave Portling. The coastline is indented with countless small inlets and coves, each with its own beauty, especially on a day as perfect as the one we chose in April.
The other notable feature was how quiet it was. There are relatively few seabird nesting sites along here, or so it seems, and the peace of the day was enhanced if anything by songbirds in the trees and the gentle lap of the water sparkling far below us.
The whole walk was a series of delights, one after another, with every twist and turn, rise and fall, revealing another dramatic bit of cliff or steep-sided inlet. This coast had a reputation for smuggling and you can easily imagine small boats furtively creeping into these coves at night to unload their haul of contraband.
Looking across the Solway Firth you could see the hills of the northern Lake District, and I thought I could make out Blencathra and Skiddaw. Inland, the views are first dominated by Criffel, but later there is a grand sweep taking in Rough Firth and its islands and Screel Hill beyond. The view indicator on the Torrs pointed somewhat optimistically to the Isle of Man but we saw no sign of it.
The first spring flowers were starting to appear and we noted speedwell among others. The gorse was a blaze of rich yellow and aromatic too.
The path is clear throughout and waymarked at all the critical points. Some of the signpost mileages are a bit approximate but what does that matter when the scenery is as fine as this? We took our time and ambled along, meeting a few other discerning walkers who were all as delighted with the walk as we were. We knew we had plenty of time as the bus back to Sandyhills was not until 4pm.
The final section of path from Castlehill (site of a fort at one time) wanders into Rockcliffe on a meandering route round little bays and through gorse and then woodland, as if reluctant to arrive. On the way it passes an old grave to a sailor named Nelson (not Horatio, of course). It finally follows the lane known as the Merse, where the houses have amazing sea views.
The only slight disappointment was the lack of a tearoom in Rockcliffe. There was an ice-cream van though, doing good business. To get your cuppa it seems you have to continue along the coast to Kippford, but we left that for another day. You can have too much of a good thing and our senses were fully sated by the walk we had done. It is certainly one we’ll be happy to return to. ROGER SMITH Route: Start at Sandyhills car park (GR: NX891553). Walk down to the beach and TR on sand. At end of bay cross footbridge and take path (partly stepped) up to view indicator on the Torrs. Continue with coast path, dropping to road at Portling. TR and at T-junction TL on track past houses. Look for footpath sign on R and climb steeply then follow clear cliff path for 4km. TL up to Castlehill Point view indicator. Take left-hand path from here along field edge then as signed through gorse, round small bays and through wood to reach lane. Follow lane to road at Rockcliffe and TL to reach bus stop (GR: NX847538).