The Herald - The Herald Magazine
The walk Balloch to Cardross
Location: West Dunbartonshire Map: OS Landranger 63 Distance: 6 miles (10km) Time: 3-4 hours Terrain: Paths and forest road; steep in places THIS walk largely follows an old coffin road used to take the recently departed from Balloch over to the burial ground at Cardross. For us today it offers a fine walk with glorious views but as you cross the busy A82 by the footbridge and look up at the slope ahead (the steepest part of the climb), you can imagine how the coffin bearers might have felt as they shouldered their heavy load and started up the hill. They often worked in relays, changing frequently to give each other a rest.
The Stonymollan Road rises steadily above Balloch and before long provides superb views across Loch Lomond and its islands to Ben Lomond standing proud. To the right of the Ben you may see a conical peak in the distance. This is Ben Vorlich above Loch Earn, a long way away. The view is one of the main pleasures of this walk but I wonder how much of it the coffin bearers took in as they laboured up the hill.
The tarmac ends at Upper Stonymollan and the old route continues as a clear track, now on a lesser gradient. Just before the forestry gate, looking back you get a magnificent panorama encompassing the loch, Strathendrick, Strathblane and the sweep of the Campsie Fells – a truly uplifting prospect.
Much of the forest area ahead has recently been felled but the route, which is now part of both the John Muir Way (JMW) and the Three Lochs Way (TLW), remains open. The JMW runs from Helensburgh to Dunbar, right across central Scotland, while the TLW is a shorter route from Ardlui to Balloch.
At a junction you can see the old route straight ahead, but this section is now boggy and usually holds cattle, so it is easier to go right with the JMW/TLW on a broad forest road to the next T-junction. The two trails go right here but our route takes us left as signed for Cardross. When my wife and I were last here, a pine trunk near the exit gate made a perfect lunch seat, and the smell of resin from the recently felled timber was very strong.
Leaving the forest, with views across to Port Glasgow, you pass Blackthird Farm. It is common to have “parcels” incorporated into farm names in Scotland so you find “third” and “quarter” used quite often. Take the next left. A sign says “Cardross 3.2km” and it is all of that, but the road is quiet and the surroundings are lovely. Partway down, a house on the right has an amazing collection of old farm implements including ploughs, barrows and smaller items used to hold hanging baskets, of which there must be at least 50.
Nearer Cardross you pass St Mahew’s Chapel and the old burial ground – easily missed so watch for the gate leading into it.
The unassuming building has an extraordinary history. There has been a chapel here for more than a thousand years – its founder was a disciple of St Patrick, also known as St Mochta of Louth. The building was in a ruinous state for many years before the Archdiocese of Glasgow acquired it in 1948 and decided to restore it. The restoration is based on the old structure which dates back to 1467. A small vestry was added and the nave extended. The restoration was completed in 1955 and the chapel is still in use for worship.
Cardross and its twin settlement Geilston are both quite small so there is no real sense of being in an urban location until you reach the A814, from where the station is a short walk. You will have reached Cardross with a sense of pleasure after such a fine walk. The coffin bearers would look forward to finally setting down their load, no doubt with a sense of relief as well as of a duty faithfully done.
ROGER SMITH Route: From Balloch station, walk out to the main road and TL. After 500m at the roundabout keep R and take the second exit (marked No Through Road). In 200m TL at the Footpath to Cardross sign. Cross A82 by a footbridge and follow the road uphill. After the road ends at Upper Stonymollan Farm keep ahead, still climbing on clear track. Go through a gate to enter forestry (now largely felled). At the junction TR on broad forest road (JMW sign). At the next junction TL on a track signed for Cardross. Leave the forest at a gate, pass Blackthird Farm and take the next left (signed Cardross 3.2km). Follow the minor road to Cardross. At the main road go L, first R then L and R at end to station. Note: Forestry operations may mean route diversions at times.