The Herald - The Herald Magazine
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diet-related health statistics and the sugar tax. Cutting sugar in baked goods is tricky because alternative sweeteners such as chicory root are relatively expensive and more difficult to source, so it pushes up the price. Reducing the size of cakes and biscuits is an option, which also means reducing the price per item.
The fact is, sugar is necessary for baking. “It’s a difficult issue for bakers because as well as being a sweetener, sugar is a functional ingredient,” he says. “It contributes to the texture of the cake by breaking down the egg structure during the mixing stage, and this helps with the aeration of the cake, which makes it lighter and closer in texture.
“Eating a bit less of the good stuff is probably the best advice.”
Campbell says part of the reason he started giving classes was interest sparked by GBBO. “It’s served a few people well, but I don’t think it’s done anything for the national diet,” he says. “However, it’s been great for raising the profile of baking as a profession. People have a new appreciation of what I do, and I hope it remains a spectator sport and that people will keep coming to the shop.”
He also devotes time to teaching S3 and S5 pupils at Crieff High School, but says not enough time or budget is allocated to practical home economics.
“You really need a full morning to do it properly but timetables have changed and the budgets for buying in raw ingredients is shocking,” he says, adding that he takes his own flour to the school.
Then it’s time to remove the oatcakes and bannocks from the oven, wrap them in his wife’s lovely designer paper bags and take them home. I leave with a feeling of deep satisfaction. Campbell’s baking class has taught me a lot.
And though it pains me to say it, I have the Great British Bake Off to thank for leading me to him.
The Great British Bake Off has served a few people well but I don’t think it’s done anything for the national diet