The Herald - The Herald Magazine

Channel Islands Discover the real world of the Guernsey Literary and Potato Peel Pie Society

- SARAH MARSHALL

WHEN Elizabeth McKenna and her friends accidental­ly bump into a German patrol after curfew, she excuses their misdemeano­urs by claiming they are part of a book club. The ridiculous name, The Guernsey Literary and Potato Peel Pie Society, is inspired by the potato pie one member is holding at the time.

The title of Mary Ann Shaffer’s novel is a fitting tribute to an island shaped by a jovial community spirit. The film adaptation follows the story of the “accidental” literary group and its central characters, through the eyes of journalist Juliet Ashton (Lily James), who is invited to the island by pig farmer Dawsey Adams (Michiel Huisman) after he finds her name scrawled in a book.

The film shines a spotlight on Guernsey’s German occupation during the Second World War. But it also highlights the sense of togetherne­ss shared by residents – a quality that makes this island unique.

Although scenes were largely shot in Devon, the film’s soul belongs to Guernsey. Discover the Channel Island for yourself by exploring these sites connected to the story.

Cobbled streets and colourful houses greet visitors to this delightful­ly compact capital – just as they do Julia in the book. The scenic harbour, where Dawsey works, is a great place to sit back and breathe in the sea air. The Old Town Hospital (now Guernsey police station) is where Elizabeth works as a volunteer.

Locals claim this is the smallest chapel in the world, and measuring five metres by three metres, they might be right. It was built in 1914 by French monk Brother Deodat, who wanted to created a miniature version of the grotto and basilica at Lourdes. Dawsey takes Juliet to see the curious building, which is decorated with seashells, pebbles and broken china. There is no charge to enter; the building’s upkeep relies solely on donations.

Previously the Crown Hotel, which is mentioned in the novel, this traditiona­l pub overlookin­g the marina in St Peter Port is celebratin­g the film’s release with a themed menu. During the Guernsey Heritage Festival (which runs until May 9), the pub is serving potato peel pies and real ales. There will also be special events and talks about the occupation and liberation of the island. See liberation­group.com

Walk along the quiet lanes of this parish to see the places where key characters of the Guernsey Literary and Potato Peel St Peter Port’s scenic harbour is a great place to sit back, take in the views and breathe in the sea air Pie Society lived. Visit Dawsey’s house in La Bouvee and Eben Ramsey’s residence on Calais Lane, which was also the “birthplace” of the society. The tourist board has devised a two-hour themed walk running from Sausmarez Manor, which survived damage during the occupation because the owner refused to install electric lights, and ending at the Old German Bunker. Download maps and an audio guide from visitguern­sey.com – look for Walk 20.

“It’s beautiful – a rugged path that wanders up and around the headland,” exclaimed Juliet after walking from Fermain Bay back to St Peter Port. Regularly mentioned in the book, this pebbly beach on the island’s east coast can be reached by a clifftop walk. The Fermain Beach Cafe serves gluten-free cakes and sandwiches.

For an idea of what life must have been like during the occupation, visit this immersive museum founded and run by Richard Heaume, who started collecting bullets from nearby fields as a schoolboy. Filled with recreated shopfronts, Occupation Street gives an impression of what St Peter Port looked like in 1940-45. Entry is £6. See germanoccu­pationmuse­um.co.uk

The Guernsey Literary and Potato Peel Pie Society is in cinemas now

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