North coast Take the slow road to white beaches, a rainforest, romantic islands and Herringopolis

Above right: Red Point, a glorious swathe of amber sand

WE live in a hurried world where, for many of us, the essence of a deeply nourishing holiday is to dial down the schedules and the speed. The gentle pace of Scotland’s far north coast has been promoted with huge success under the banner of the NC500 circuit of more than 500 miles. While visitor numbers swell, many struggle to relax. Under the impression that the loop is achievable in a week or even less, they soon discover the price of this approach is a gruelling itinerary and a sense of disconnection from places they pass through.

In my experience, the slow tourism route offers more rewards. To discover the diversity of this far north coast certainly requires more than a week. So take it easy, make meaningful connections with the landscape and the people and come away with magic memories. Alternatively discover Scotland’s spectacular northern Highlands in stages, over a few trips.

SEASHORE CROFTING: APPLECROSS TO TOSCAIG

Applecross consists of seashore townships that are especially lovely to explore on foot or bike. Meandering in the company of free-range cattle, sheep and hens is a delight. The narrow shore road passes the inn and a parade of low stone cottages. An uphill path leads to a rare Atlantic rainforest at Carnach. High rainfall and stable mild temperatures create ideal conditions for more than 140 varieties of lichen and over 100 varieties of moss.

In these seashore clachans a Gaelic-speaking community of crofters, butchers, tailors, weavers, shopkeepers and a blacksmith lived largely self-sufficient lives. Times have changed. Many of the homes are now holiday cottages yet the community still supports a doctor’s surgery, two churches, a shop and a primary school renowned for a stag’s head on the wall and a wildcat with a rabbit under its paw in a glass case.

From Culduie, sunset views of Skye are especially romantic. Ard Dhubh is a community of traditional houses and ruins crammed cheek-by-jowl on to a headland. Along the shore, a walk of two kilometres follows a clear footpath to Ard Ban and Coille Ghillie, largely deserted townships with tropical white sand beaches. Toscaig is at the road end. This sleepy spot is where you might catch sight of an otter.

THE ROMANCE OF THE B8056 – AND A FABULOUS BEACH

Among my favourite roads is the B8056. This single-track carriageway boldly announces itself with an enormous sign at the modest junction with the A832. It proclaims a delicious invitation to discover idyllic inlets, romantic islands, crofting townships with sea views and spectacular beaches.

Lovely Badachro is an anchorage in the shelter of Eilean Horrisdale, the largest of the islands in Loch Gairloch. It is connected to the mainland by a floating bridge that rises and falls with the tide. Hideaway cabins offer guest accommodation. The unassuming pier and store on Badachro Bay are associated with the Laird of Gairloch’s grand scheme to export dried cod from the Highlands to Bilbao in the 18th century. On the hill above, Badachro Distillery is a cottage