The Herald - The Herald Magazine
Barbados It’s no rum do... you’ll holiday like an A-lister
WALKING along an endless stretch of golden sand on the west coast of Barbados, locals greet me with dazzling smiles and a cheery “Good morning” in their lilting Bajan accents. Sunlight skips on the water as sea-crabs hurriedly scuttle by tourists dozing on loungers and the cloudless sky is a deep blue.
In the distance, a figure emerges from the sunrise. Running towards me, his honed physique rippling, is model Oliver Cheshire. Turns out Barbados really is the Caribbean island of my dreams.
It’s not unusual to run into a celebrity in Barbados, the playground of the rich and famous. Simon Cowell and Cliff Richard have lavish homes on the island, where they can bask in the sun undisturbed.
And while unofficial global ambassador Rihanna is the pride of Barbados, no one would bat an eyelid at the sight of the superstar picking up pastries at the PRC Bakery in Speightstown.
“Celebrities like coming here because they can walk around like normal people. We don’t bother the stars,” explains our ebullient guide, Donna-Lisa Smith. “Everyone is treated like a star in Barbados.”
It’s true. With heartwarming hospitality and a host of intriguing sights and culinary experiences at their disposal, the Bajan people will make you feel like a superstar even if you’re not one.
Although, during my visit, there are plenty of celebrities in town...
Departure Beach has arrived
“It’s paaarty time!” announces Sir
Richard Branson as he launches Virgin Holidays’ Departure Beach, a sandy stretch which doubles as an airport check-in, allowing holidaymakers to soak up every last bit of Caribbean sun.
Fireworks spin across the night sky as the rum punch flows. DJ Maya Jama plays Bajan beats, encouraging singer Pixie Lott and Irish TV presenter Laura Whitmore to turn up the heat on the flip-flop-ready dance floor.
Model Lottie Moss and Made in Chelsea’s Emily Blackwell are engrossed in conversation and, standing alongside me in the changing area, Pixie Geldof is doing her hair.
Taking the stress out of travel, Departure Beach allows you to check in on site, while your luggage is whisked off to the airport.
Take a swim, dine at one of the three restaurants, lounge by the pool and relax in the air-conditioned lounge, complete with children’s gaming area and wi-fi, before being transferred to the airport for your flight, feeling every inch a superstar.
Fancy more of the VIP lifestyle? Here are five more ways to holiday like an A-lister in Barbados...
PICK UP SOME LUXURY GOODS
When you’ve had enough of lazing on the beach, head for the Lime Grove Lifestyle shopping centre in Holetown to pick up some luxury souvenirs. Here you’ll find designer goods from Louis Vuitton, Burberry, Michael Kors, Chopard and others.
Feeling peckish? Make a beeline for The Green Monkey Chocolatier, where you’ll discover a treasure trove of handmade truffles and some of the best macarons. Shopping done, you can sit back in one of the luxury outdoor bars with a martini in hand.
SIP SOME FINE RUM
With 350 years of expertise, Barbados produces some of the finest and strongest rum in the world. Discover the tradition of rum-making at St Nicholas Abbey, 15 miles north of Bridgetown, on a rum tour (about £50). You’ll be guided through the distillation process and invited to taste the produce.
Continue the sampling at the Colony Club hotel’s Rum Vault, serving some of the finest rums in the world such as Mount Gay.
HAVE DINNER AT DAPHNE’S
Want to dine like the rich and famous? Head to Daphne’s, a beach-side sister restaurant to the well-known London institution and Rihanna’s favourite hang-out. The Italian-inspired menu uses local seafood for its speciality lobster linguine. Fine wines flow and laughter rings out as stories of travels are shared. A three-course meal costs from £57, with cocktails from £11.
CRUISE ON A CATAMARAN
Nothing shrieks celebrity quite like chartering a swanky vessel. An ultra-stylish 62ft catamaran, Seaduced, is the ultimate in celebrity luxury. You can indulge in a freshly prepared meal by the on-board chef, accompanied by champagne or cocktails, while soaking up the views. Or you can go diving to shipwrecks, swim with green turtles or just laze and watch the world go by.
There are two bedrooms and showers below deck and ample space for dining, accommodating from two to 20 guests for a party on the seas. A trip on a semi-private charter costs £145pp.
STAY AT THE TAMARIND BY ELEGANT HOTELS
Arriving at the Tamarind, you’ll be greeted with cocktails and spectacular views. The beachfront property is surrounded by lush greenery and neat lawns offering a relaxed atmosphere. With three pools, large rooms and a lavish breakfast buffet, you’ll experience all the creature comforts you need during your stay.
All beaches in Barbados are public, so there’s ample opportunity for star-spotting, with celebrities frequently seen walking along the stretch of golden sand to Paynes Bay.
Clockwise from top: Saoirse Ronan, as Mary, Queen of Scots; Houstoun House hotel; Linlithgow Palace
After the death of Francois, Mary returned to Scotland in 1561. The Palace of Holyroodhouse was her residence for the next five years. Here you can visit Mary’s apartment and bedchambers, often said to be the most famous room in Scotland. After growing up in France and gaining a French accent, Mary had to reaffirm her position of power and gain the respect of her countrymen. She would often hold impassioned religious debates at the palace. Her second marriage to her cousin Henry Stuart took place while at Holyroodhouse.
It was also here that Mary witnessed the murder of her Italian secretary David Rizzio. It is said he was stabbed 56 times, the assassination ordered by her jealous husband Lord Darnley because of rumours that he had impregnated Mary. After the murder Mary forbade anyone to clean up the blood-soaked floor and to this day the stain remains in the outer chamber.
As well as exploring the rich historical figures that populated the palace before and after Mary’s residence, visitors can wander around her bedchamber, supper room and the outer chamber.
CRAIGMILLAR CASTLE
After Rizzio’s murder, Mary went to Craigmillar Castle in Edinburgh. Behind these castle walls a plot began to murder Darnley. An agreement named the Craigmillar Bond was formed and Darnley is thought to have been smothered shortly
after. It is not known if Mary had any involvement in the murder of her second husband.
Craigmillar is often described as one of the best-preserved castles in the country. The impressive ruin allows access from the top of the fine tower house to the murky basements.
LOCHLEVEN CASTLE
Her controversial (forced) third marriage to the Protestant Lord Bothwell at the Palace of Holyroodhouse sparked an uprising. After she surrendered, Mary was imprisoned in Lochleven Castle in 1567 on Loch Leven. She spent a year on the small island. During this time she suffered a miscarriage, losing twins, and it was here that she was forced to abdicate or die. Despite such losses, she made a daring escape from the island, while her crown was passed to her infant son.
Lochleven Castle is accessible via a short boat trip from April to October. Despite its picturesque location, it is easy to reflect on the solitude Mary must have endured here after suffering defeat.
Crossing the loch just as she would have done, standing in the tower rooms where she was imprisoned and looking out at the views she would have beheld makes her presence almost palpable.
DUNDRENNAN ABBEY
Built in the 12th century, Dundrennan Abbey is nestled in a remote glen near Kirkcudbright. This Cistercian abbey is where Mary spent her last night on Scottish soil. She gathered her remaining strength and made plans to take control of Dumbarton Castle. After her army of 6,000 men was intercepted en route, she was forced to flee, eventually arriving at Dundrennan.
It is now a ruin, but perhaps the abbey gave the queen a renewed sense of hope that she could one day find peace. Here, Mary made the difficult decision to seek the protection of her cousin, England’s Queen Elizabeth I, and travel south.
MACDONALD HOUSTOUN HOUSE Built in the 16th century, Houstoun Manor House, near Livingston, is said to be a residence where Mary would often be entertained.
John Shairp of Houstoun was an advocate to Mary. A little cottage known as the Woman House, attached to the manor, is believed to have been where she would sleep when a guest of the Shairps. When she was executed in 1587, Thomas Shairp locked the door to the room where she had slept and it was never again used.
Fast forward to the present day and Houstoun Manor remains a luxurious, yet respectfully modernised, setting. And, as you may have guessed, the Woman House was reopened and now takes pride of place as the honeymoon suite, offering guests the rare experience of sleeping in the same room as a queen.
As a guest at MacDonald Houstoun House you can explore the virtually unchanged courtyard and manor grounds, complete with the old well. Among items here are a pair of hawking gloves and a beautiful glass cabinet which are said to have been presented by Mary.
Highlights include the Jeremy Wares fine dining experience in the 16th-century tower and the Vaulted Bar in the cellars.