Overloooked whites and reds that really rock

When in Rome do as the Romans do – although that is a bit of a stretch as I’m scribbling notes for this week’s column over dinner in an Italian restaurant.

I’m naturally a red type of chap but with the sommelier hovering over me, it seems only right to give the pinot grigio and soave a go. I know there are hundreds of whites in Italy but I’ve only got one shot at this over a splendid dinner of grilled sardines. Soave is often overlooked in the UK but when the sun comes out, so does the creaminess of those whites, making them a great match for any salad. Pinot grigios, on the other hand, are fabulous aperitif wines at any time, but if you partner them with grilled sardines and a little aged balsamic, the flavours just dance across your tongue. But with anything more powerful than shellfish, they wither under the pressure.

When it comes to red, however, Italian wines come into their own. Italian food is dominated by pasta, tomatoes and olive oil. Tomatoes are passion killers when it comes to red wines but thankfully the Italian winemakers have a trick up their sleeve. They retain a dollop of refreshing acidity in their reds, which seems to envelop the food in a velvet blanket of forgiveness. It’s difficult to pick favourites from Italy but there are two I always go back to. Sangiovese is one and – dare I say it – the Aussies are creating some wonderfully sexy versions that are long on fruit, high on acidity and almost equally high on alcohol. My other favourite isn’t for everyone but amarone rocks. Amarones tend to be rich and full-on while retaining a soft palate that makes them great with red meat pasta dishes and ideal with pan-fried sirloin.

La Tunella Pinot Grigio

Really full-on for a pinot grigio with a flowery nose leading into a palate chock-full of tropical fruit and brioche. Corney & Barrow, £12.95

Le Volte dell’ Ornellaia

An unusual cracking blend of Bordeaux varietals with local sangiovese creating a stunning jammy wine with creamy tannins and hints of oak on the finish.

Majestic £21.59