Sharing 25 years of an institution

FEW restaurants can be called institutions, but one that can is London’s iconic St John – the work of culinary double act Fergus Henderson and Trevor Gulliver (who met via their shared olive oil man). As it celebrates its 25th anniversary, the team have shared a trove of beloved recipes as well as classic staples and newly tempting dishes.

Who will love it?

To start with, dedicated fans of the restaurant. But even if you haven’t had a chance to visit St John directly, or experienced their Eccles cakes with Lancashire cheese in person, the recipes should appeal. Keen cooks with a penchant for “nose-to-tail” eating and a particular love of pig will especially enjoy it.

What is it trying to get us cooking?

Things that make you feel good, and that use up every scrap of each ingredient. And that includes everything from lamb brain baguettes and pig’s tongues with butter beans, to duck hearts and chicken, bacon and trotter pie. As Henderson notes in the introduction: “Once an animal has been killed you would be foolish not to make the best use of every single delicious part.” But there is deliciousness here for non-trotter eaters too. There is pear and sherry trifle, blackberry pavlova, poached guinea fowl with summer vegetables, braised rabbit, St John’s ever popular Welsh rarebit and drinks galore (don’t miss the Fergroni – “Negroni as it should be”, apparently).

How easy is it to use?

It very much depends what you want from it. If you want musings on the necessary “background music” of capers and the importance of embracing curly parsley in “dumper truck proportions”, the grace, wit and enthusiasm of the writing is enough on its own as a lovely, heartening, straightforward read. You don’t even need to attempt a single recipe. But if you are that way inclined, we would suggest you read each recipe several times. While some are easy, others are convoluted feasts that require time and patience

The best recipe is...

A vanilla custard stuffed doughnut and a glass of Champagne – to be consumed at 11am, no less. On Henderson’s orders.

The recipe we’re most likely to post pictures of on Instagram is...

The pickled tripe – yes, really. It comes with bright orange slivers of carrot, pearlescent crescent moons of red onion and tons of mint. Plus, the cuttings of honeycomb tripe are strangely alluring.

Overall rating

9/10 – witty, functional, beautiful and imbued with the true feel of the restaurant itself.

The Book of St John by Fergus Henderson and Trevor Gulliver, £30