The Herald - The Herald Magazine
Cruising to the ‘islands at top of the world’
AT school I was not particularly good at certain subjects. Must Do Better said my reports, however, I did well in history and geography. From those lessons I have been fascinated by the Arctic, as my teacher described it as “islands at the top of the world”.
So I couldn’t wait to board Fred. Olsen Cruise Lines’ smaller scaled ship, Black Watch, visiting Iceland and Greenland with an exciting itinerary.
We sailed into Reykjavik, Iceland; our first tour entitled The Golden Circle took us to Geysir, an area of hot springs, nestling in a clearing in lush forest and rolling hills – the Stokkur Geyser erupts every few minutes. I gazed in wonder at its white spray rising around 25 metres towards a blue sky.
Next Thingvellir National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site; walking in the footsteps of Vikings. We trekked through a rugged canyon to the first Viking settlement, founded in 874AD. Our next excursion promised A Taste of Iceland. A leisurely drive took us to Seltun, surrounded by a moonlike landscape, and its geothermal area. We strolled among jets of steam escaping from numerous multicoloured mud pots, which bubble and burst continuously. I counted nine different colours from pink to golden brown – a fascinating place.
The day ended with a panoramic tour of Reykjavik, taking in highlights and contrasting architecture.
Sailing to Greenland, we entered the scenic passageway of Prins Christiansund. Eight hours of spectacular sights, where an azurecoloured waterway met snow-capped mountains under a clear blue sky. Black Watch glided past waterfalls, icebergs and imposing glaciers which glistened white and blue.
At every twist and turn the dramatic landscapes were breathtaking. Black Watch lowered a rigid inflated boat (RIB) whose crew retrieved a floating piece of the iceberg, brought it on board, then chiselled it into segments and served it to us in our drinks, a unique experience.
On board there is a daily events programme, while in the evenings imaginative five-star cuisine is a delight, followed by great shows.
Our first port of call in Greenland was Qaqortoq, a quaint town with multicoloured houses. Hiking around the Great Lake you hear about the unusual sub- Arctic flora and fauna. During the walking tour you see stone sculptures called Stone and Man by local artists depicting the culture of Greenland.
The evening sailing took us through fjords where Black Watch skilfully manoeuvred past icebergs – sights to savour.
Our next stop in Greenland was Narsarsuaq – home to a world of green mountainsides, a kingfishercoloured fjord and ancient Norse ruins. The first Viking to land here in 982AD was the infamous Erik the Red who had been banished from Iceland; on arriving he named the place Greenland.
Across the fjord is the small village of Qassiarsuk, where the Viking leader founded his settlement. We walked through the original farmstead absorbing Viking history; saw ruined stables, Viking houses and the first church. Erik sent his son Leif Eriksson on an educational trip to Norway. He returned a Christian and converted his mother; she then refused to sleep with Erik until he built a church, and he succumbed.
We were enjoying life onboard indulging in traditional afternoon tea, a wine and cheese evening, and the grill with its specialities. There was also an Oriental tea tasting, British night and the Martini experience, the latter, James Bond would appreciate.
Sailing into Nanortalik, our last day in Greenland, I was excited
as we explored this area by a RIB. Appropriately suited, we set off skimming fast across the fjord to a small town admiring its colonial houses from 1840. We hugged the shore line passing islands, inlets and villages. Finally we circumnavigated icebergs shimmering in the sunlight a few feet away; I was able to feel its smoothness. It is one thing to see icebergs, another to have it in your drinks, but to touch this natural wonder is intoxicating.
Later we were captivated by a school of whales cruising by. As they passed the last one raised its tail, was this a fond farewell?
I marvelled at Iceland and Greenland, their majestic characteristics are natural gifts.
Fred. Olsen Cruise Lines’ Black Watch certainly realised my schoolboy dream, creating indelible memories of “islands at the top of the world”.