A treasure trove …but no going back to basics

IT’S been an age since we last looked at White Burgundy … years, in fact. So I guess it’s time to revisit the greatest white wine region in the world, and yes folks, I really do mean that! It’s easy to understand White Burgundy because it’s all Chardonnay (well, about 99% of it anyway) but, as with its red counterpart, there are so many different appellations within the region that it starts to fuzz your brain. Confusion is Burgundy’s gift to the wine world but if, like me, you find a couple of styles you are comfortable with, it can be the start of a lifelong love story.

Take my advice and forget the basic Bourgogne Blancs, unless you are on a budget holiday. However, above them is a treasure trove of styles. My favourites are Chablis, St Veran, Pouilly Fuisse, Puligny Montrachet and Chassagne Montrachet.

I also adore Batard Montrachet but, unless you land the EuroMillions, it’s pointless chatting about them.

Chablis is the steely and largely unoaked style with the vines grown on chalky soil that imparts a clean, mineral taste to the wines. My favourites are the Premier Crus – that little bit more approachable than the often intense and smoky Grand Crus.

St Veran is my go-to style with fish dishes, especially a crab salad in the summer, while the lightly oaked Pouilly Fuisse wines are delightful on their own. The Montrachets are oaky delights and winemakers around the world copy their toasty buttery style. But few New World wines have the complexity of a Puligny or the depth of a Chassagne or Mersault. Don’t forget to give me a call if you drop the lotto by the way!

Saint Aubin Dents de Chien, 1er cru, Leflaive

What a corker this is. It’s a bit like apple pie with a hazelnut and vanilla cream on top and a dollop of refreshing acidity on the finish. Far too good to share so be selfish with this one!

Corney&Barrow £38.95

Premier Cru Chablis

A light, citrus nose with stone fruits on the palate and a lovely refreshing hint of lemon on the finish. Perfect with shellfish

Marks & Spencer £18